Dish Duel: Tempura Soba

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The first of our occasional series where we'll pit the same dish from two different restaurants against each other concerns tempura soba, the Japanese soup dish of buckwheat noodles paired with a side of tempura shrimp and vegetables for dipping, in a battle between Sunset District noodle shop Hotei (1290 9th Ave.) and Mifune Don (22 Peace Plaza) in the Japan Center.

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Wine Bar of the Week: Wine Jar

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Wine Jar (1870 Fillmore), a cozy and friendly neighborhood hangout, is what I call a real wine bar, as opposed to a restaurant that doubles or poses as a wine bar. They sell some nuts, olives, and cheese to snack on, and have a small selection of good bottled beer, but the focus is on the wine.

The thoughtfully chosen list includes around 50 wines, more than half available by the glass ($4-18) or half-glass, and many of the rest in half (375ml) bottles. The selection favors boutique California wineries, but also has some nice choices from France, Italy, Spain, Germany, Australia, and New Zealand.


Beyond the California Roll: 10 Types of Hood Maki

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(S.F. sushi spots create specialties far more regionalized than just the California Roll; image via Flavor J)

It's not that the California Roll isn't appreciated, but it sure is fun to see sushi joints naming their maki after the neighborhoods where they operate. Here are 10 that stand out:

1. Potrero Veggie Roll (asparagus, scallions, tofu, carrots, avocado, inari) at Blowfish Sushi (2170 Bryant)

2. Marina Roll (shrimp and avocado) at Enoshima (2280 Chestnut)

3. Castro Rainbow Maki (Crab, avocado, tuna, sake, albacore, ebi and halibut) at Crazy Sushi (3232 16th St.)

4. North Beach Roll (baked sushi with tiger shrimp, avocado, imitation crab, cucumber inside, wrapped with smoked salmon and topped with aioli sauce) at Sushi on North Beach - Katsu (745 Columbus)

5. Divisaderoll (choice of tuna or amberjack, avocado, masago) at Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar (2815 California)

6. Sunset (ikura and quail egg wrapped with salmon) at Jimisan Sushi Bistro (1380 9th Ave.)

7. The Fillmore (saba, shiromaguro tartare, gobo) at Yoshi's (1330 Fillmore)

8. Fort Point (grilled asparagus and avocado topped with seared Kobe beef, fried shallots, garlic ponzu) at Tokyo Go Go (3174 16th St.)

9. Barracuda on Market (rice paper wrapped, dried pineapple, red tuna, salmon, kaiware, avocado, wasabi, tobiko, blueberry and mango sauce) at Barracuda Sushi (2251 Market)

10. S.F. Wave Tsunami (cooked red tuna chopped with ginger and green onion wrapped in egg and served with Kabuto seaweed gravy sauce) at Kabuto (5121 Geary)

Sweet Notes From Yoshi's

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This evening, I attended a live performance by Morocco's legendary Sufi trance music artists the Master Musicians of Jajouka at Yoshi's (1330 Fillmore). It was a pleasant surprise to learn that the club/lounge/restaurant serves some comforting bites for dessert.

The Sweet Septet ($7) is a lovely cookie plate that holds seven complementary bites. There were crisp and moist coconut macaroons, chewy ginger snaps sandwiched with sweet yuzu cream, powdered sugar-dusted chocolate cherry cookies called crinkles and the highlight, a sumptuous chocolate-mousse-and-malt-filled chocolate bon bon.

Paulette: A New Obsession

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Paulette (437 Hayes) opened last week and provides definitive proof that a French macaroon can be a sensation in the right hands. Sure, the ones at Miette (449 Octavia) around the corner are eminently edible, but Paulette's are a story.

Candybar for Brunch

1.jpgA few weeks ago, when I celebrated my birthday at Candybar (1335 Fulton Street), we noticed that the dessert lounge would be starting a new Sunday brunch service beginning at 10 a.m. on November 30 (normally, the place doesn't open until 6 p.m.). We endeavored to become the first brunch guests and succeeded with generous slabs of Acme vanilla french toast with persimmon syrup and candied persimmons and a delicate Pink Lady apple salad with Point Reyes blue cheese, hazelnuts and heavenly burnt honey vinaigrette.

The evening dessert menu changes monthly, but it was explained to us that the brunch selection will change every Sunday, the end result of a Saturday trip to the Farmer's Market followed by a brainstorm session. While we hope Candybar will rotate a few more sweets (from the evening menu or otherwise) into the brunch, it was a satisfying (and affordable) meal--and one that didn't keep us jacked up on sugar all night long. --Tamara Palmer

A Kid in the Candybar

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Notes by Tamara Palmer, Photos by Tim Pratt

I was a bit sad knowing that, with this birthday, I'd technically be leaving the youth demographic behind. But I learned over a slice of cake and Cocoa Krispies ice cream that I could still be a kid in the Candybar.

The dessert/wine/art lounge opened in late March, and has had three different chefs during since then, as reported by EaterSF. That site's coverage has made it clear that Candybar is still defining its identity; the menu, which changes monthly, contained savory as well as sweet items until November's, which omits the savory and lowers the average dessert price to $7. And, quite honestly, Eater doesn't make it necessarily sound like a place worth visiting. But I decided to give it a whirl myself and vote with my own taste buds over blog gossip (which I also like to consume).

It was a great idea. Since my little birthday dessert jamboree there on Sunday night, I've been able to think of little else.

Tags: Candybar

Christopher Elbow's Liquid Chocolate Experience

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By Tamara Palmer

Earlier this year, Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolates of Kansas City, MO opened its second boutique in San Francisco. Elbow's bonbons are among the most beautiful in the world, airbrushed and glittery, and his flavors continually push the envelope, from rosemary caramel to absinthe. Even the bars are a delight; over the past year, I've cultivated an enviable addiction to bar No. 6: Dark Rocks, a 61% cacao bar studded with exploding candy.

But a new personal highlight of dipping into the Elbow store is the Liquid Chocolate experience.

Snacktion: Spicy Mixed Nut Chikki

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Name: Spicy Mixed Nut Chikki

Brand: Spice Vice

Origin: Mission District, San Francisco

Found at: Miette Confiserie, 449 Octavia (at Hayes). (I also tried to buy it at Rainbow Grocery and either forgot to pack it up, or lost it in transit, oops.)

Cost: $3.50

Ingredients: Organic whole almonds, organic whole cashews, organic whole pistachios, organic sugar, jaggery, organic Strauss clarified butter (ghee), organic spices and salt.

Calories per Serving: Not listed, which I take to mean in my twisted world that it is calorie-free!

Why I Bought It: I love the mix of spicy and sweet in general and am attracted to organic products, plus I am actively looking to feature locally made Snacktion.

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