By Matthew Stafford

The first time I headed up to Lake Tahoe a decade or so ago, I figured the place would be lined with rustic, pine-timbered ski lodges where grizzled mountain men grilled trout fresh from the lake and served it on a plank with a few huckleberries and a mug of hard cider. Imagine my disappointment when upon arrival at the lake's southern shores I beheld instead a sort of alpine Anaheim brimming with pizza parlors, chop suey joints, frat-boy cantinas, golden arches and (a favorite motif) Swiss-chalet pancake establishments. I was on a regional food kick at the time, and my outrage was keen. Where were the High Sierra variations on the New England clam shack, the Deep South catfish parlor, the Pacific Coast oyster bar?

Although Lake Tahoe Boulevard still offers up its share of formica-limned fast food joints, the local restaurant scene has improved exponentially in the last few years. Topping the list is the Blue Water Bistro (3411 Lake Tahoe Blvd., Timber Cove Marina), a temple of cutting-edge California cuisine and one of the few local dining establishments, believe it or not, that's situated right on the lake. From the restaurant's second-floor perch, the lucky diner can gaze out at jewel-toned water and distant alp while sipping one of the soul-warming house-infused toddies (the pear-apple-rum concoction is especially bracing). My favorite entree is the filet mignon salad, a bountiful bowl of fresh greens, caramelized red onion, roasted walnuts, chunks of silky-pungent Point Reyes Blue and thick filets of tender, juicy steak. Housemade persimmon cobbler is the ideal cold-weather meal-closer.