San Francisco Blog

The first of our occasional series where we'll pit the same dish from two different restaurants against each other concerns tempura soba, the Japanese soup dish of buckwheat noodles paired with a side of tempura shrimp and vegetables for dipping, in a battle between Sunset District noodle shop Hotei (1290 9th Ave.) and Mifune Don (22 Peace Plaza) in the Japan Center.

Sunset sushi joint Ebisu (1283 9th Ave.) is still under renovation and will re-open on May 7; in the meantime, you can cross the street and enjoy the sushi menu at the sister restaurant Hotei (1290 9th Ave.). The Louisiana Hot Link ($6.50) is a roll of deep-fried bonito fish, fresh ginger and garlic. How the fish that is normally used to make Japanese soup broth can magically taste like a pork product is a mystery, but it really does. It even makes one long for the not-yet-realized: Sausage sushi.

Taraval Okazu Ya (1735 Taraval) offers a Japanese reinterpretation of the Chinese crab rangoon appetizer with the sushi nugget ($5.95). Crab and cream cheese are stuffed in a small roll that is then deep fried and served with a sweet mayonnaise-based sauce. The perfect thing to win over sushi newbies (especially if you ask to hold the orange tobiko aka fish eggs), this roll is also available at nearby Noriega Okazu Ya (2445 Noriega).

The other day, while eating at Outerlands (4001 Judah), the curiously named Trouble Coffee stood out on the menu. As it turns out, not only is Trouble Coffee and Coconut Club (4033 Judah) on the same block, it's been open for a year and a half, selling one (and only one) incredibly unique breakfast of thickly sliced homemade cinnamon toast, coffee and a whole young coconut.

It's called Build Your Own Damn House ($7) and is an adventure in playing with your personal chemistry; the coconut water mellows the jitters and extends the duration of the caffeine buzz from the coffee, while the sugar in the toast draws an instant smile. All that's missing, really, is a little acid, but fortunately BYODH goes great with their new shot of sweet-tart fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice ($2.50), which for some reason they ask you to call Yoko. Oh no.

Arizmendi Bakery (1331 9th Ave.) is a surefire spot for cookies, bread, pastries and pizza. But it might be surprising to learn that the worker-owned collective also makes a mean tabouli ($3.50). This can be one of the least substantial components of a Middle East feast (as Trader Joe's calls it), but Arizmendi's tangy version adds whole garbanzo beans to create something that is satisfying as a stand-alone meal or snack. Their tabouli and hummus are two of the only vegan products there, unless you count the beverage selection.

Inside Outerlands (4001 Judah), a welcome new addition to an increasingly more charming collection of businesses on the last few blocks where Judah ends at Ocean Beach, the use of mixed wood helps continue the feeling of water, sand and salty air.

Soups, salads and sides are the name of the game (for the moment at least), with a focus on organic ingredients from Northern California; the salad greens come from Heirloom Organics in Hollister, for example. There's also a rotating beer selection as well as organic, biodynamic and sustainable wine from France, Germany and Ukiah.

Polly Ann Ice Cream (3138 Noriega) has been putting a smile on my face since before I was tall enough to see over the original counter, and they've had their Star Wars flavor (mint ice cream with marshmallows) for almost as long: More than two decades, in fact. You can turn a scoop of any flavor into a Walk-Away sundae for $3.95, and that offers additional choices of wet and dry toppings (I went with caramel and peanuts) along with whipped cream and a cherry. A two-scoop sundae doesn't have a special name, but a three-scooper is snazzily called the Disco and the four-scooper the Spoiler, the latter of which is apt because that would easily ruin your next meal. They'll let you taste flavors before you choose, but if you just cannot decide, you can spin the wheel and let luck be your guide -- you might even win a free scoop.

(S.F. sushi spots create specialties far more regionalized than just the California Roll; image via Flavor J)

It's not that the California Roll isn't appreciated, but it sure is fun to see sushi joints naming their maki after the neighborhoods where they operate. Here are 10 that stand out:

1. Potrero Veggie Roll (asparagus, scallions, tofu, carrots, avocado, inari) at Blowfish Sushi (2170 Bryant)

2. Marina Roll (shrimp and avocado) at Enoshima (2280 Chestnut)

3. Castro Rainbow Maki (Crab, avocado, tuna, sake, albacore, ebi and halibut) at Crazy Sushi (3232 16th St.)

4. North Beach Roll (baked sushi with tiger shrimp, avocado, imitation crab, cucumber inside, wrapped with smoked salmon and topped with aioli sauce) at Sushi on North Beach - Katsu (745 Columbus)

5. Divisaderoll (choice of tuna or amberjack, avocado, masago) at Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar (2815 California)

6. Sunset (ikura and quail egg wrapped with salmon) at Jimisan Sushi Bistro (1380 9th Ave.)

7. The Fillmore (saba, shiromaguro tartare, gobo) at Yoshi's (1330 Fillmore)

8. Fort Point (grilled asparagus and avocado topped with seared Kobe beef, fried shallots, garlic ponzu) at Tokyo Go Go (3174 16th St.)

9. Barracuda on Market (rice paper wrapped, dried pineapple, red tuna, salmon, kaiware, avocado, wasabi, tobiko, blueberry and mango sauce) at Barracuda Sushi (2251 Market)

10. S.F. Wave Tsunami (cooked red tuna chopped with ginger and green onion wrapped in egg and served with Kabuto seaweed gravy sauce) at Kabuto (5121 Geary)

A few months back, I blogged about my positive eating experience at the Taco Shop at Underdogs Sports Bar and Grill (1824 Irving), but I didn't know then about Taco Tuesdays, where small street tacos are a buck each from 5 to 8 p.m. on Tuesdays. I went back last night and ate two pork and two beef tacos, sipping ginger ale while my friends added $2 Tecates to their mix. I left feeling satisfied, though I could have also easily eaten a few more without too much convincing. I also learned that the bar offers margaritas for the extremely recession-friendly price of fifty cents on Fridays from 6 to 6:30 p.m. -- Tamara Palmer

Shangri-La Vegetarian Restaurant (2026 Irving) serves Kosher Chinese food that's been blessed by local rabbis. It offers a great many vegan options, including some of the best fake meat around (try the goose!), and the affordable lunch special ($6.40) is healthy and filling. A personal favorite is the Sweet and Sour Walnut, which is just like the traditional dish except puffs of walnut and gluten are substituted for pork or chicken.

The full portion of Sweet and Sour Walnut costs $1.10 more, which is totally worth it when you know that it comes beautifully served in half of a fresh pineapple. I am unspeakably hard on veggie pot stickers at other establishments (I think they are mostly pointless and sad), but Shangri-La has mastered the art of the dumpling wrapper and is far better than the un-blessed dim sum bakery that's right next door. -- Tamara Palmer