In the first several years after Hôtel Biron (45 Rose) opened, I looked in its front window at least a dozen times, and was always puzzled as to why so many people were hanging out in a hotel lobby. Finally, curiosity got the better of me, and I went in, only to find out that it was not a hotel but an eccentrically-named wine bar (the original Hôtel Biron is the Rodin museum in Paris).

My loss--this is one of the the coziest, friendliest bars in the city. Drinking there feels almost like hanging out in a friend's living room. One exception is the first Thursday of the month: the space doubles as an art gallery, and that's when they have their receptions, which are usually packed.

The list includes over 100 wines, about half of which are available by the glass ($9 to $15), plus 20 botled beers ($3 to $10), a couple of sakes, and a few soft drinks. There's no room for a kitchen in the small space, so there's only cold food: cheeses, cold cuts, olives, nuts, and fruit.

Two things make me crave my next visit to CAV (1666 Market). One is the careful selection, broad range, and adventurousness of the constantly changing by-the-glass list, which features over 40 wines from all over the world starting at $3.25 for a 2.5-oz. taste or $6.50 for a 5-oz. glass. Unless I know and love the wine, I always go for tastes, since I can always order a second if I want more.

Almost always I find something I haven't tasted before, such as Çankaya ($3.25 / $6.50), a Turkish white made from a blend of Emir, Narince, Semillon, and Sultania grapes. Usually there are also personal favorites I don't see around much, such as the Santomas Big Red Refosk ($4.50 / $9).

The other thing that draws me back is the platter of house-made charcuterie ($20). This concept has become a bit of a cliche, but I find this one an unusually good value. With over a dozen items on the plate, including unusual items such as a tongue terrine topped with grated horseradish, and a serving ample enough for two, this is the perfect thing to pick at while enjoying a few wines.