San Francisco Blog

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The new traditionalist: Sebo's Michael Black.

​It's ironic -- sushi, a cuisine that fetishizes a few simple, pristine ingredients, just might be the last restaurant genre to pick up the ingredient-centric mantra of modern food. But a sustainable sushi revolution that ignited in San Francisco has gradually spread to other West Coast cities, causing more and more sushi lovers to question where the tuna in their nigiri is from, and whether or not it's depleting global fish stocks.

The standard collection of always-on-the-menu favorites (farmed salmon and shrimp, eel, hamachi, and above all bluefin tuna, every one of them dodgy from an environmental perspective) is giving way to less conventional choices. At the same time, young chefs (most not of Japanese heritage) are taking sushi back to its historic roots in early-19th century Tokyo, when fish for sushi was lightly cured with salts, vinegar, and seaweed. We're foscusing on four West Coast spots in the forefront of new sushi.

Tiny, nondescript Tataki in San Francisco is credited with launching the sustainable revolution -- it's the first sushi bar in America to serve only seafood from sustainable sources. Chef-owners Kin Lui and Raymond Ho even employ a full-time sustainability consultant. They've banished unagi, but how about faux-nagi? Fatty black cod seared with a blowtorch to resemble glazed eel. Cool idea.

Portland's Bamboo Sushi calls itself the world's first certified sustainable sushi restaurant (it's received a big thumbs up from the Marine Stewardship Council). Owner Kristofor Lofgren brings a kind of New American sensibility to sushi. Consider the Salmon Nation rolls, ivory salmon smoked in house with wild salmon and salmon-skin salsa, or the Highway 35, with its red crab and sake-poached pears.

Janine Kahn

Yeah, we noticed it's not technically in a box.

Unless you do sketchy things with other peoples' money for a living, $15 for lunch is probably out of reach. Except on super special occasions, like making it through another week still employed. Next time you have something to celebrate, head to Tsunami Mission Bay (302 King at Fourth St.), which is owned by the same folks who run Nihon Whisky Lounge, Café Abir, and the NOPA sushi bar of the same name. Tsunami's new bento box ($15) offers a quartet of sashimi, three nigiri pieces, and chicken teriyaki, Kobe beef stew, or broiled unagi with rice, goma ae, and oshinko, all preceded by some of the creamiest-textured, deliciously mushroom-flavored miso soup in town -- just the thing to make you feel important. If a tad poorer.

Tataki's Early Bird is the best meat sushi roll in town.

Where's the beef? Sushi rolls are not just for fish anymore. We've noticed a meaty trend in S.F.'s numerous sushi restaurants, and while it isn't always the best idea, these five sure hit the spot:

1. Early Bird Roll (filet mignon, avocado, asparagus, and pineapple) at Tataki (2815 California at Divisadero)

2. Fort Point Roll (Kobe beef, asparagus, avocado, fried shallots, and garlic ponzu) at Tokyo Go Go (3174 16th St.)
 
3. Lamb Apple Sushi (lamb, apple, and cherry balsamic sauce) at Kabuto (5121 Geary at 15th Ave.)

Roast beef nigiri from Delica rf-1.

4. Roast Beef Sushi (Meyer Ranch beef, arugula, shallots, and radish) at Delica rf-1 (1 Ferry Bldg at Embarcadero)

5. 7 in the Morning Roll (bacon, avocado, smoked salmon, and sundried tomato) at Sushi Hunter (1701 Powell at Union)

Sushi Rock (1608 Polk at Clay; 614 Pine at Grant) offers more than a dozen creative rolls, many with names that don't seem to logically correlate with its ingredients. For example, neither we nor our server have the ability to tell you why the chefs have named a shrimp tempura roll topped with avocado, tobiko, and banana slices the Sweet 16 ($14.95). We do know for sure that it has an interesting taste that might split your table: While we find the banana to be a subtle and sweet component that doesn't overpower everything else, our dining companion on a recent visit contorted her face in absolute displeasure at its inclusion.

Tucked into the car-free block of Buchanan known as Osaka Way, Miyako (1707 Buchanan/Osaka Way at Post) offers both Japanese and Korean dishes, from ramen and sushi to bibimbap. There are a lot of standards from which to choose, but there's clearly some fun being had with the maki: There is a huge selection of special sushi rolls with playful names and ideas. Never ones to back down from a challenge, we took on Mission Impossible ($13.95), a roll that features no less than four types of fish and three different sauces. Raw, spicy tuna, imitation crab (likely pollock), and cucumber are on the inside, with grilled white tuna, grilled salmon, jalapeno-infused masago, miso dressing, mustard, and cheese sauce on top. Less than halfway through, we understood its name, but still pressed on until the end in a battle between a full tummy and an enamored palate.

Sakura Bune (5701 Geary) offers a Japanese twist on an Americanized Chinese favorite. The Honey Walnut Roll ($10.95 for an eight-piece rolll or $2.65 for two pieces from the sushi boat) pairs tempura shrimp with walnuts glazed in honey mayonnaise and is topped with avocado slices. It's both satisfying to the sweet tooth and a clever way to enjoy a somewhat fattening dish in a lighter way.

Can't decide on a tuna sandwich or some tuna sushi for lunch or dinner? Try the tuna salad roll ($3.50) to go at Yum Yum Fish (2181 Irving). A clever amalgamation of the two ideas, it's comprised of tuna salad, lettuce, tomato, and cucumber and is a simple and flavorful combination.

Crazy Sushi (3232 16th St.) offers a decadent treat with its SF Giant Roll ($14). Buttery pieces of lobster are deep-fried and paired with avocado, cucumber and a sweet, creamy sauce that is almost dessert-like. The end pieces have an abundance of the meat and are therefore prone to being fought over, so you might want to hit those first.

Sunset sushi joint Ebisu (1283 9th Ave.) is still under renovation and will re-open on May 7; in the meantime, you can cross the street and enjoy the sushi menu at the sister restaurant Hotei (1290 9th Ave.). The Louisiana Hot Link ($6.50) is a roll of deep-fried bonito fish, fresh ginger and garlic. How the fish that is normally used to make Japanese soup broth can magically taste like a pork product is a mystery, but it really does. It even makes one long for the not-yet-realized: Sausage sushi.

Made only at Miyabi (253 Church), the Funky Dooty Roll ($9.95) packs crunchy asparagus and perfectly ripe mango inside with spicy tuna wrapped around the outside. The fish has a decent amount of heat, but the fruit keeps it from being uncomfortable. The Funky Dooty is a fun maki that is well worth the inevitable giggling that occurs when ordering.