San Francisco Food Blog

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Again we have to ask: Why?

​Food history was made yesterday when a group of U.C. Berkeley students and volunteers made the world's longest California roll in Sproul Plaza. Reports from the Oakland Tribune and San Francisco Chronicle detail hundreds of amateur sushi makers -- some rocking ninja gear -- rolling a new world record of 331 feet. It was composed of 200 pounds of dry rice, 180 pounds of imitation crabmeat (aka krab), and 80 pounds of both avocado and cucumber -- the end of the roll was filled with tofu as a substitute for the krab. Eight years ago, a group in Maui set the record for a 300-foot-long roll. The event was a celebration of the 50th anniversary of Cal's Center for Japanese Studies. Uh, can we get more ginger and wasabi over here?

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The length to beat: 300 feet.

​Yeah, this is how we roll: Food history may be made on Sunday, Nov. 8, when a group in Berkeley attempts to make the world's longest California roll.

Eight years ago, a group in Maui set a record for a 300-foot-long roll. The Cal organizers hope to beat the record and "bring the California roll record back to Cal!" Eaters, you will be able to eat the results of the sushi made with crab (or, um, krab), cucumber, and avocado, all wrapped in vinegared rice -- after the proper photos and documentation take place. In Japan, the California roll has gained popularity, and is known as kashu-maki (literally, "California roll"). Credit for the roll's invention usually goes to Ichiro Manashita, of L.A.'s Tokyo Kaikan restaurant, sometime in the early 1970s.

The Berkeley roll-a-thon happens at Sather Gate on the Cal campus, 12:30-1:30 p.m. Organizers are planning to set up 56 tables for the event, which is sponsored by U.C.'s Center for Japanese Studies and Cal Dining. You can sign up as an unaffiliated individual or as part of a team -- register here. But keep in mind that team leaders are expected to show up tomorrow at 8 p.m. for a practice roll in the Unit 1 Residential Halls All-Purpose Room (College at Bowditch, Berkeley).

Kyoto Sushi (1233 Van Ness at Sutter) is easy to miss, located as it is amidst the bustle of a busy traffic corridor. But a creative sushi menu is worth slowing down for. Take the Sunset ($11.95), a California roll topped with partially baked salmon, parmesan cheese, and garlic sauce. The combination of flavors tastes like pizza. Traditional it ain't, and that's why we love it. 

Moki (615 Cortland at Moultrie) is a sushi spot with a Polynesian vibe -- it shows up not only in the decor but in the sushi. The namesake Moki roll ($7.95) is a mix of shrimp tempura, chopped macadamia nuts, and a generous amount of jalapeño, topped with sweet-and-sour sauce. The results are more suggestive of Hawaii than Japan, a combination of textures and flavors that evoke a far more tropical clime than the one just outside Moki's door.

The Brownie: less clumpy equals more delicious

Richmond District hot spot Sushi Bistro (431 Balboa at Sixth Ave., 933-7100) recently relocated to a new space a few doors down from the original. Thankfully, the move didn't alter its extensive and creative menu. One of several rolls made with brown instead of white rice, the Bistro Brownie ($11.75) pairs stewed, sweet toro (tuna belly) with pumpkin tempura, topped with mango relish and a sauce that evenly balances sweet and spicy. Okay, so brown rice doesn't stick together as well as white. But it's a healthy, delicious alternative we wish more sushi makers would consider.

Sushi Rock (1608 Polk at Clay; 614 Pine at Grant) offers more than a dozen creative rolls, many with names that don't seem to logically correlate with its ingredients. For example, neither we nor our server have the ability to tell you why the chefs have named a shrimp tempura roll topped with avocado, tobiko, and banana slices the Sweet 16 ($14.95). We do know for sure that it has an interesting taste that might split your table: While we find the banana to be a subtle and sweet component that doesn't overpower everything else, our dining companion on a recent visit contorted her face in absolute displeasure at its inclusion.

Tucked into the car-free block of Buchanan known as Osaka Way, Miyako (1707 Buchanan/Osaka Way at Post) offers both Japanese and Korean dishes, from ramen and sushi to bibimbap. There are a lot of standards from which to choose, but there's clearly some fun being had with the maki: There is a huge selection of special sushi rolls with playful names and ideas. Never ones to back down from a challenge, we took on Mission Impossible ($13.95), a roll that features no less than four types of fish and three different sauces. Raw, spicy tuna, imitation crab (likely pollock), and cucumber are on the inside, with grilled white tuna, grilled salmon, jalapeno-infused masago, miso dressing, mustard, and cheese sauce on top. Less than halfway through, we understood its name, but still pressed on until the end in a battle between a full tummy and an enamored palate.

Sakura Bune (5701 Geary) offers a Japanese twist on an Americanized Chinese favorite. The Honey Walnut Roll ($10.95 for an eight-piece rolll or $2.65 for two pieces from the sushi boat) pairs tempura shrimp with walnuts glazed in honey mayonnaise and is topped with avocado slices. It's both satisfying to the sweet tooth and a clever way to enjoy a somewhat fattening dish in a lighter way.

Spicy rolls are a fixture on most sushi menus, but there may be no hotter maki than the Extinguisher ($12) at Tataki (2815 California). Spicy amberjack is topped with avocado, habanero masago, and hot sauce, and this combination sets the mouth on fire. But that's not enough heat for the chefs at Tataki, so the plate is set on fire as it is brought to the table.

Can't decide on a tuna sandwich or some tuna sushi for lunch or dinner? Try the tuna salad roll ($3.50) to go at Yum Yum Fish (2181 Irving). A clever amalgamation of the two ideas, it's comprised of tuna salad, lettuce, tomato, and cucumber and is a simple and flavorful combination.

Crazy Sushi (3232 16th St.) offers a decadent treat with its SF Giant Roll ($14). Buttery pieces of lobster are deep-fried and paired with avocado, cucumber and a sweet, creamy sauce that is almost dessert-like. The end pieces have an abundance of the meat and are therefore prone to being fought over, so you might want to hit those first.

Sunset sushi joint Ebisu (1283 9th Ave.) is still under renovation and will re-open on May 7; in the meantime, you can cross the street and enjoy the sushi menu at the sister restaurant Hotei (1290 9th Ave.). The Louisiana Hot Link ($6.50) is a roll of deep-fried bonito fish, fresh ginger and garlic. How the fish that is normally used to make Japanese soup broth can magically taste like a pork product is a mystery, but it really does. It even makes one long for the not-yet-realized: Sausage sushi.

Made only at Miyabi (253 Church), the Funky Dooty Roll ($9.95) packs crunchy asparagus and perfectly ripe mango inside with spicy tuna wrapped around the outside. The fish has a decent amount of heat, but the fruit keeps it from being uncomfortable. The Funky Dooty is a fun maki that is well worth the inevitable giggling that occurs when ordering.

Taraval Okazu Ya (1735 Taraval) offers a Japanese reinterpretation of the Chinese crab rangoon appetizer with the sushi nugget ($5.95). Crab and cream cheese are stuffed in a small roll that is then deep fried and served with a sweet mayonnaise-based sauce. The perfect thing to win over sushi newbies (especially if you ask to hold the orange tobiko aka fish eggs), this roll is also available at nearby Noriega Okazu Ya (2445 Noriega).

Tataki (2815 California) prides itself on the sustainable seafood it uses for its sushi and sashimi, but one of the most intriguing rolls on the menu is actually made with meat. The Early Bird ($12) has crunchy asparagus and avocado on the inside and blowtorched filet mignon with pineapple and chile sauce on the outside. I had to remind myself repeatedly not to scarf down this sweet-hot treat too quickly.

At Barracuda (2251 Market) in the Castro, the house music is bumping and the food has fun names. Case in point: The Gangsta Roll ($12.95), which hosts hamachi, cucumber and green onion on the inside and unagi, salmon, orange and black tobiko and unagi sauce on top, a harmonious blend of salty and sweet with the buttery texture of good, fresh fish. And unlike places that give in to the urge to make giant, overstuffed maki that are less than graceful to eat, Barracuda keeps it all in line.

The pistachio avocado roll ($5) at Rumble Fish (200 23rd Ave.) is a lively alternative to plain avocado rolls, which are a staple of any veggie sushi enthusiast's diet but can be a little bit boring. The nuts are crushed and rolled both inside and outside, so the flavor really comes through in every bite. In addition to the usual seafood suspects, this cute little bistro in the Richmond District also makes a cashew avocado roll (and, for carnivores who want to stay on land, an amazing beef carpaccio). Strangely enough, the restaurant also sports a poster for The Godfather on the wall, giving off a cute gangster vibe.