Before you read this, ask yourself, "How much do I want the Tonga Room to change?" If the answer is "A lot," you're going to be disappointed. You're also a joyless buzzkill.
|New drinks, same old Tonga Room.|
The tiki palace that looks like David Lynch's afterlife destination buried in the Fairmont Hotel has been an international treasure of cultural appropriation since the end of World War II. It has theoretically been updated, but apart from new walls and three or four new cocktails that are just as saccharine as all the others, not much stands out. (Of those, the Hurricane is much better than the Pineapple Royale, which does come in a pineapple, and there is also a rum punchbowl on loan from Smuggler's Cove). Like the Catholic Church, it's probably good for this institution to ride out most fads unscathed, so we're not weeping that there aren't reclaimed subway tiles and Mason jars everywhere.
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The Tonga Room -- Historical or Hysterical?