Albert Law/porkbellystudio

Koo's Spoon of Happiness (yes, it's really two spoons of happiness).

SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition ​

When Kiyoshi Hiyakawa opened his Inner Sunset sushi bar Koo in 2004, he hoped to escape the cutely termed, Americanized rolls of his former employer, Tokyo Gogo, and instead offer a more traditional selection of fish catered toward sushi purists. For the most part, he's succeeded. However, Koo's most popular, and in our opinion most enchanting item has perhaps the most gimmicky of names: Spoonful of Happiness.

"Spoonful" should be plural, as Hiyawaka actually creates two spoons separated by a shot of house sake.  We opt to start with the ladel of sweet uni topped with a quail egg and spiked with a dash of tobiko ponzu. It slides down the throat all too easily, leaving an aftertaste of tart brine. Next, we shoot the sake straight down in a single gulp, utilizing its palate-cleansing capability, not to mention an instant buzz, before continuing on. Finally, we slurp spoon number two, a small hunk of ankimo (monkfish liver) sheathed in a thin slice of whitefish and finished with a few droplets of truffle oil. Fortunately, the truffle oil doesn't overwhelm the ingredients, but instead adds to the earthiness of the monkfish liver, stirring up pleasant memories of a Jewish grandma's chopped liver. 

Each of these bites taken separately, including the shot of sake, easily charms the taste buds. Experienced all together though, the Spoonful of Happiness is a prime illustration of how a little bit of fusion and a lot creativity can really triumph.

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Jonathan Kauffman

Ice House's savory fan tuan, or rice roll.

This week's review of i-Skewers put SFoodie in a dumpling frame of mind -- specifically, a Shanghai-style sheng jian bao frame of mind -- and in our zig-zagging travels around the Avenues, looking for the puffy, pan-fried pork dumplings, we ended up at Ice House on Noriega and 20th Ave.  More >>

Melissa Barnes

Boiled dumplings from i-Skewers.

​Why would you go to a restaurant named i-Skewers? How can you not check out a restaurant named i-Skewers? I asked myself that not a few times before finally stopping in this new Northern Chinese restaurant in the Sunset. I ended up writing this week's full-length restaurant review about the place.

​You may not think that the depths of the Outer Sunset, steps away from Ocean Beach, would be a hotspot for weekend brunch -- but Outerlands is full of surprises. The small, cozy restaurant on 45th Avenue and Judah Street is so nondescript a passerby might not notice it -- that is, if it weren't for the crowd of people waiting patiently (even contentedly!) outside.

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The first of our occasional series where we'll pit the same dish from two different restaurants against each other concerns tempura soba, the Japanese soup dish of buckwheat noodles paired with a side of tempura shrimp and vegetables for dipping, in a battle between Sunset District noodle shop Hotei (1290 9th Ave.) and Mifune Don (22 Peace Plaza) in the Japan Center.

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Sunset sushi joint Ebisu (1283 9th Ave.) is still under renovation and will re-open on May 7; in the meantime, you can cross the street and enjoy the sushi menu at the sister restaurant Hotei (1290 9th Ave.). The Louisiana Hot Link ($6.50) is a roll of deep-fried bonito fish, fresh ginger and garlic. How the fish that is normally used to make Japanese soup broth can magically taste like a pork product is a mystery, but it really does. It even makes one long for the not-yet-realized: Sausage sushi.

Taraval Okazu Ya (1735 Taraval) offers a Japanese reinterpretation of the Chinese crab rangoon appetizer with the sushi nugget ($5.95). Crab and cream cheese are stuffed in a small roll that is then deep fried and served with a sweet mayonnaise-based sauce. The perfect thing to win over sushi newbies (especially if you ask to hold the orange tobiko aka fish eggs), this roll is also available at nearby Noriega Okazu Ya (2445 Noriega).

The other day, while eating at Outerlands (4001 Judah), the curiously named Trouble Coffee stood out on the menu. As it turns out, not only is Trouble Coffee and Coconut Club (4033 Judah) on the same block, it's been open for a year and a half, selling one (and only one) incredibly unique breakfast of thickly sliced homemade cinnamon toast, coffee and a whole young coconut.

It's called Build Your Own Damn House ($7) and is an adventure in playing with your personal chemistry; the coconut water mellows the jitters and extends the duration of the caffeine buzz from the coffee, while the sugar in the toast draws an instant smile. All that's missing, really, is a little acid, but fortunately BYODH goes great with their new shot of sweet-tart fresh-squeezed grapefruit juice ($2.50), which for some reason they ask you to call Yoko. Oh no. More >>

Arizmendi Bakery (1331 9th Ave.) is a surefire spot for cookies, bread, pastries and pizza. But it might be surprising to learn that the worker-owned collective also makes a mean tabouli ($3.50). This can be one of the least substantial components of a Middle East feast (as Trader Joe's calls it), but Arizmendi's tangy version adds whole garbanzo beans to create something that is satisfying as a stand-alone meal or snack. Their tabouli and hummus are two of the only vegan products there, unless you count the beverage selection.

Inside Outerlands (4001 Judah), a welcome new addition to an increasingly more charming collection of businesses on the last few blocks where Judah ends at Ocean Beach, the use of mixed wood helps continue the feeling of water, sand and salty air.

Soups, salads and sides are the name of the game (for the moment at least), with a focus on organic ingredients from Northern California; the salad greens come from Heirloom Organics in Hollister, for example. There's also a rotating beer selection as well as organic, biodynamic and sustainable wine from France, Germany and Ukiah.
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