Number 32: Panisse Frites From Frances

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Gil Riego Jr.
Frances's panisse frites.
SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition

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If the era of gorgeously simple Bay Area cuisine ushered in by chefs like Judy Rogers and Paul Bertolli has taught us anything, it's that nothing is too humble for us to lavish attention on. We have become a city of cooks and diners trained to appreciate the radishes perched among the leaves of a simple salad and the 17 different textures a beet can take on, depending on how it is cooked.

And at a restaurant like Frances, whose chef, Melissa Perello, is steeped in that tradition, the small dishes -- roasted cauliflower with olives, a Little Gems salad with grilled asparagus -- are often the ones whose refinement surprises us the most. We wouldn't be shocked to spot Peril cooking with a jeweler's loupe strapped to one of her eyes to inspect each ingredient as it cooked.

And so while SFoodie has fond memories of Frances's bavette steak, it's the panisse frites that we've never been able to shake from our minds. The chickpea-flour bricks are cut so precisely they look like you could build a fort with them. Just out of the fryer, their gold surfaces have a fine, sandy texture, and they crackle a little if you pinch them too hard. But then, just past that crackle, the frites' solidity evaporates. Swab one through a green-garlic aioli and bite in, and you find the steaming insides are as creamy and soothing as 12-hour polenta. It's an astonishing metamorphosis. Isn't this supposed to be just a pre-dinner snack?

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Farmers' Market Season Kicks Off In The Castro

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Jamison Wieser/Flickr
What: Castro Farmers' Market opening day

Where: Noe Street at Market Street

When: Wed., March 14, 4-8 p.m.

Cost: Free

The rundown: Free cooking lessons, live music, and an appearance by the Sisters of Perpetual Indulgence are just a few reasons to come celebrate the start of the Farmers' Market season in the Castro. Every Wednesday until mid-December, some of the freshest produce from local growers will usher in their latest offerings. Chef Mario Hernandez is teaching quick and easy food recipes from foods sold at the market that you can take home with you and enjoy. Stefan Robinson, Pacific Coast Farmers' Market Association marketing promotions manager told SFoodie that the live demonstrations are a part of the Cookin' The Market program.

They've extended the market and have added new vendors. A tasty pairing Robinson suggests from the new folks: asparagus from Cecchini & Cecchini and creamy feta from Achadinha Cheese Company. Both are new vendors this year. Robinson and the PCFMA are excited to be bringing back the Glen Park Farmers' Market for its second year on April 1. The Upper Haight Farmers' Market opens April 4.

A full list of San Francisco county farmers' markets can be found here.

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Simple Comfort Food Satisfies at Chow Brunch

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A lazy, aimless Sunday morning is the perfect time to find yourself at Chow, the cozy restaurant situated at Church and Market yet seemingly tucked away in its own quiet world. Known for its easy, unpretentious favorites any time of day, during weekend brunch hours (8 a.m. to 2 p.m.) Chow is arguably at its best, ready to satisfy customers with a hot mug of coffee or a slice of the daily pie.  More >>

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brunch, Chow

Beyond the California Roll: 10 Types of Hood Maki

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(S.F. sushi spots create specialties far more regionalized than just the California Roll; image via Flavor J)

It's not that the California Roll isn't appreciated, but it sure is fun to see sushi joints naming their maki after the neighborhoods where they operate. Here are 10 that stand out:

1. Potrero Veggie Roll (asparagus, scallions, tofu, carrots, avocado, inari) at Blowfish Sushi (2170 Bryant)

2. Marina Roll (shrimp and avocado) at Enoshima (2280 Chestnut)

3. Castro Rainbow Maki (Crab, avocado, tuna, sake, albacore, ebi and halibut) at Crazy Sushi (3232 16th St.)

4. North Beach Roll (baked sushi with tiger shrimp, avocado, imitation crab, cucumber inside, wrapped with smoked salmon and topped with aioli sauce) at Sushi on North Beach - Katsu (745 Columbus)

5. Divisaderoll (choice of tuna or amberjack, avocado, masago) at Tataki Sushi and Sake Bar (2815 California)

6. Sunset (ikura and quail egg wrapped with salmon) at Jimisan Sushi Bistro (1380 9th Ave.)

7. The Fillmore (saba, shiromaguro tartare, gobo) at Yoshi's (1330 Fillmore)

8. Fort Point (grilled asparagus and avocado topped with seared Kobe beef, fried shallots, garlic ponzu) at Tokyo Go Go (3174 16th St.)

9. Barracuda on Market (rice paper wrapped, dried pineapple, red tuna, salmon, kaiware, avocado, wasabi, tobiko, blueberry and mango sauce) at Barracuda Sushi (2251 Market)

10. S.F. Wave Tsunami (cooked red tuna chopped with ginger and green onion wrapped in egg and served with Kabuto seaweed gravy sauce) at Kabuto (5121 Geary)

Snacktion: Rossi's Deviled Eggs

Categories: Castro, Snacktion
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Name: Deviled Egg

Brand: House-made

Origin: In-house

Found at: Rossi's Delicatessen (426 Castro)

Cost: $1.25

Ingredients: Hard-boiled eggs, mayonnaise, pickle relish, yellow mustard, and a decorative sprinkling of paprika

Calories per serving: Not listed

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Why I bought it: It's difficult for me to be in Rossi's neighborhood without stopping in for one of their good sandwiches (dependable favorites: the blt and their real roasted turkey) and always, always one of their overstuffed deviled eggs, whether I'm on my way to see a movie at the Castro or heading home. The eggs are good as a side dish, but also you can smash one or two up, slap them between a couple of slices of bread at home, and have yourself an excellent egg salad sandwich on the cheap. 

Tasting notes: Classic combination of sweet and sour, with extra points for not overboiling the eggs. 

Would I buy them again?: Try and stop me.

What other blogs/sites thought of them: One Yelper, under the influence of the Film Noir Festival at the Castro, asked "Did these eggs sell their soul to taste so good?", another called them "tasty," and one more deemed them "excellent."

Tags:

Snacktion

Drink of the Week: 2223's Bloody Mary

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Normally, this drink scares me, but 2223 (2223 Market) in the Castro has what must be the zingiest and liveliest Bloody Mary in town, a stimulating eye-opener for brunch or refresher for the evening (we tried it in the former circumstance). You also might even catch a sighting of local celebrities, as we did when we saw Police Commissioner Theresa Sparks and sexpert Violet Blue brunching together at 2223. --Tamara Palmer
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