Each week, we take a quick, cautious look at what's going on with food TV. This week, The Great Food Truck Race, a one-hour show that once saw a food truck drive past it, Sundays at 9 p.m. on the Food Network.
Tyler Florence's neck beard in its infancy. (It gets much worse, folks.)
Part of the fun of eating at a food truck is hanging around the trucks themselves, with the oft-striking artwork lending a vaguely subversive fragrance to lunch, which lunch needs. The last thing you tend to think is, "So this is the kind of crap the art department of the Food Network comes up with?"
But that's the FIRST thing you think when watching The Great Food Truck Race, on the Food Network.
I decided to review the trucks instead of the show, because then I didn't have to review the show. But for those who do watch it, BE FORWARNED: Host Tyler Florence, whose usual hosting style is to lull people into a low-level erotic somnolence by very speaking slowly and calmly about herbs, has broken from his squeaky-clean image, I'd say about five days ago, with a grey-flecked, proto-Amish neck-beard. I know it's trite to say a beard can achieve sentience, but this thing once ate a waffle.
This truck looks like the laminated menu of a pizza restaurant in Fresno. The only place this truck belongs is inside Terminal 1 at SFO, parked next to Max's. Do you think "Cia Sul Via" means "Our Pizza is Shit"? I don't like this truck at all.