"Nothing here was thought out at all," says Paul Canales, sweeping his arm across the massive, airy space of Duende. It's hard to believe. Duende in the mid-afternoon is beautiful--washed in daylight, the walls a raucous mash of beautiful and hectic Basquiat-esque canvases by Raymond Saunders (a friend of Canales), racks of house-pressed olive oil, and the rest an eclectic mélange of exposed brick, reclaimed wood, and roughed up stucco--an accidental byproduct of demolition that Canales loved. And there's something special about Duende, it's available in the daytime in a way few restaurants are. Meet the bodega: Duende's wine bar/café/social space that always feels like you've arrived to a friend's party just a little bit early.
Molly Gore Paul Canales in Duende's bodega.