Original Joe's Brings Its Vaunted Burger To The Ballpark

Categories: City of Burgers

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Alex Hochman
Scanning over the Giants' pre-season press release, the mention of a new Original Joe's burger being served at AT&T Park drew my ire. Why would a vaunted institution like Original Joe's lend its name to what was sure to be a pale imitation of a local classic? My suspicions amplified during Monday night's game, when I had to hunt down the burger at a semi-hidden Derby Grill stand next to the mini-ballpark behind the left field bleachers. Were the Giants already hiding this thing? Then came the sight of six sedentary burgers under heat lamps. I almost bee-lined my way back to the safe haven of the gourmet sausage kiosk, which serves my go-to kielbasa.

See also: The New Original Joe's: Nostalgia Without Kitsch

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Brunch is Best At The Expanded Naked Lunch

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The Dapper Diner
Naked Lunch's superlative burger.
At the start of the year, Ryan Maxey and chef Ian Begg decided it was time to make a change to Txoko, their North Beach Spanish tapas restaurant located in the heart of strip club row on Broadway. Closing the restaurant down, the duo replaced the space with a much more relaxed pub and grill, extending their revered North Beach sandwich shop, Naked Lunch, into the spot. It's a very distinct conceptual change from Txoko, with two billiard tables, a Pop-A-Shot basketball arcade game, counter ordering service (a fact I wish was made more prominent upon entry), and an all day menu.

See also: Naked Lunch Expands Into Txoko Space
Naked Lunch Now Serves a Burger -- and Dinner


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Kronnerburger Popping Up in Oakland on Friday

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Anna Latino
The mighty Kronnerburger with bone marrow and a side of fries.
This week's review is on hamburger pop-up Kronnerburger at Bruno's in the Mission, but if you live across the Bay, want to try it, and can't be bothered to make the BART trip, you're in luck: Chef Chris Kronner is taking his burgerly skills to Oakland this Friday for the Creative Growth Studio Party during Oakland's Art Murmur.

A $30 ticket gets you a Kronnerbuger, fries, a drink ticket, and music by Shock (tickets and more info available on Kronnerburger's Facebook page).

See also: Kronnerburger: Succumbing to the Cult of the Burger
KronnerBurger: A Bloody Good Pop-Up


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Have a Burger at Biergarten Tonight

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Josh Leskar
Parker Vaughan was simply flipping his signature patties at the company picnic when the employees decided to give it a whirl back at work.

After all, hamburgers find their origins in Hamburg, Germany.

Now, Biergarten brings burgers beside beer and brats on Wednesdays, and Thursdays if they don't sell out. For $12, you can sink your teeth into a 100% grass fed, half-pound Prather Ranch patty with toppings that vary weekly. Some recent combinations have included caper aioli, bacon, caramelized onions, house pickles and little gems, as well as feta aioli, caramelized fennel and pickled shallots.

See also: Meal For Every Mood: Hayes Valley

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Naked Lunch Now Serves a Burger -- and Dinner

Tamara Palmer
Burger by Naked Lunch.
Ryan Maxey and Ian Begg recently expanded their Naked Lunch café into the space where they formerly operated Txoko restaurant, which they shuttered on New Year's Eve. The former Enrico's space has morphed into somewhat of a sports bar, complete with pool table and basketball hoop shooting game. The kitchen is now open for both lunch and dinner, with a new burger ($10) on the menu.

See Also: Naked Lunch Expands Into Txoko Space

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Monstrous Burgers Move Into the Fillmore

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Pete Kane
San Francisco has a reputation for being a land of vegetarians. Lies, all of it. This is a city for meat-eaters, and burgermania has swept the burg, from Umami Burger to Super Duper to Roam, which just opened its second location on Fillmore Street.

So we had to check on Roam's patties: Are they something unapologetic carnivores will appreciate? (You could ask if they were "manly" enough, but we don't want to perpetuate gender stereotypes.)

They are. For starters, bison (and elk!) sit prominently on the menu, where you get to build your own sandwich -- and bonus points for that. While Umami's chest-pounding stands front and center with the "Manly Burger" and its beer-cheddar cheese, you don't have to dig far to get to cave-dweller heaven at Roam.

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Burger Urge Does Serve a Filling Burger

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Jonathan Kauffman
Burger Urge's steakhouse burger: Prepare to be filled.
A few weeks ago, the wooden chrysalis surrounding a former tattoo parlor on Haight and Clayton came down, and Jack Mogannam and Sam Sirhed's Burger Urge erupted, all neon and windows The owners spent months refitting the floors with hardwood slats, installing a blindingly silvery new kitchen, and painting the walls the color of fresh paprika. Then they made the place look like a college pub, cluttering it up with cheap tables, pictures of Marilyn Monroe, and a television permanently tuned to sports.

The business is built on the Barney's Gourmet Hamburgers template: Niman Ranch patties (turkey, chicken breast, or Garden Burgers can be substituted), priced $8-10, with names like the Pineapple (pineapple, Swiss, and teriyaki) and the Elvis (peanut butter, bacon, and fried bananas). Bonus: You can find Bi-Rite Creamery ice cream for dessert (Jack is Sam's cousin).

"Prepare to Be Filled!" is the business's motto, and the steakhouse burger SFoodie tried was, indeed, filling: A double-handful with a high-domed bun and a half-pound, half-inch-thick patty splayed atop giant leaves of lettuce and tomato slices. It's a burger that requires constant shifting to eat, with meat that slips across the vegetables at every move and mushrooms and horseradish sauce escaping with the ease of a wriggling two-year-old. 

The quality was standard-issue, good beef cooked well past the medium SFoodie asked for. The accompanying fries: skinny and underdone. It was the kind of burger you seek out after spending too long at Trax's two-dollar-pint night.


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Super Duper Burger's Got Big Plans

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With three locations already -- SoMa, Marina, and Castro -- and one expected early next year in Mill Valley, Super Duper is set to burger-fy the Bay Area. We sat down with owner Adriano Paganini to talk about his next moves, possible future locations, and whether or not the menu will be expanding, too.

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Doc's of the Bay: Midwest Smash Burgers from a New Truck Headed to S.F.

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John Birdsall
Classic burger ($7) from Doc's of the Bay, a truck hoping to make the leap from Emeryville to San Francisco.
Zak Silverman cooked at Berkeley's Elmwood Café, did a sort of apprenticeship with Suzanne Schafer and Shari Washburn onboard Ebbet's Good to Go, but it was all preamble, every bit of it. Silverman ― just 25 ― knew he wanted to roll out a truck of his own.

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Doc's of the Bay/Facebook
Zak Silverman.
Two weeks ago he did. After a couple months of occasional appearances at Mission bar Homestead, Doc's on the Bay launched full-time this month, with lunchtime hours at various spots in Emeryville most weekdays. Silverman has his eye on San Francisco ― read about his efforts to secure permits downtown, in the Mission, and in Lower Haight, where some residents are pushing back. When Doc's does make the move from East Bay to west, it'll be the city's first dedicated burger truck. "The Financial District is basically Emeryville on steroids," Silverman says.

Technically, Doc's specializes in American comfort foods, what Silverman calls "straight-up Americana," produced via a sort of collaboration with Doc's cooks Lauren Smith and John Babbott. Credit Silverman's love of Americana for the truck's name, a nod to the marine biologist beardo protagonist of the 1945 novel by John Steinbeck, Cannery Row, an idyll of friendship in a scuffed-up microhood.

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No. 31: Lark Creek Steak's Steakburger

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John Birdsall
The steakburger ($12.95) at Lark Creek Steak in the Westfield San Francisco Centre.
SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

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We're a city of burgers: the homely, the buttery, the embarrassing. And while it's relatively easy to put out a good-tasting burger if you've buried the thing under aioli, bacon, and onion jam, it's hard to do minimal well. To be perfect, each object in a very limited field of elements has to be exactly right.

Lark Creek Steak's steakburger comes close, thanks to scraps. New chef Ismael Macias (longtime sous at another Lark Creek property, One Market) explains that what makes the burger so delicious is that it's a sort of byproduct of Lark Creek Steak's in-house butchery. The kitchen takes all the bits and off-cuts from its Marin Sun Farms rib eyes and New York steaks, Wagyu filets, and other flotsam of prime-meat trim and sends them through the grinder a couple of times. "All the ends, all the bits of fat," Macias says, "all the meats that come in every day."

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