Chaparral, a Fancy New Pop-Up at Kate's Kitchen

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Pete Kane
Kate's Kitchen in the Lower Haight is by no means a hidden gem, as there's often a line, but considering how good the Flanched Farney Carney sandwich and New England Flannel Hash are, it's surprising the queue doesn't become a mob scene like you find at Brenda's Soul Food.

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And now, instead of just breakfast-all-day, Kate's is home to a new and rather high-end pop-up, Chaparral. Chef Tommy Martinez (late of Mission Beach Café) is not joking around with such well-thought-out dishes as grilled bavette with fresh beans, shelling beans, confit tongue, piquillo and cherry tomatoes, or a deep-fried slow egg with lobster, shiitake mushrooms, tatsoi raab and summer squash. There's also a pork belly (with black sesame cracker, onion, fava bean and corn froth) that's hopefully unique enough to satisfy the pork-belly-is-so-over crowd. Dessert is just as seasonal, making good use of the last of the summer's stone fruit while also introducing the world to such enticing things as sweet potato frozen yogurt.

If you like dining into the wee hours, something San Francisco doesn't always eagerly accommodate, Chaparral will be your buddy. It runs from 6 p.m. until 11 p.m. Thursdays and stays open until 2 a.m. Fridays and Saturdays -- although there is no alcohol other than the BYOB kind. Just be aware you'll be shelling out about three times what you would at breakfast.

Chaparral, at Kate's Kitchen, 471 Haight St., (415) 626-3984.

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