Food Truck Bite of the Week: Doing it Mission Style at Frozen Kuhsterd
Our weekly bite explores the city's food trucks, one at a time, highlighting our favorite mobile dishes and snacks.
Lou Bustamante A visit to Dynamo, Four Barrel, and Frozen Kuhsterd all in one
The Truck: Frozen Kuhsterd
The Cuisine: Frozen custard based treats, scoops, and cones
Specialty Items: Sundaes and sandwiches inspired by San Francisco Bay Area
Worth the Wait in Line? At peak lunch time, a total 5 minutes from the end of the line to food in hand.
The desire to encapsulate the essence of a neighborhood into a single culinary archetype is usually confined to pizzas, burgers, or cocktails (as was the trend in the boroughs of New York a few years back, mostly variations on the Manhattan). But someone in San Francisco may finally have done a neighborhood justice and to boot, it comes off a food truck.
From the Mission based Frozen Kuhsterd comes a decidedly rich neighborhood focused Mission Style Dynamo Donut Sandwich ($6.50, Maple Bacon Donut, Four Barrel Coffee frozen custard, housemade burnt caramel sauce).
See also: Three Sweet Alternatives to Waiting in Line at Bi-Rite Creamery
Drink of the Week: Enjoying The Rebound Fling at Ice Cream Bar
Food Truck Bite of the Week: Lemon-Ricotta Doughnuts from Go Streatery
The sandwich was the idea of founder Jason Angeles, who was trying to come up a new dessert for the truck that was a little unconventional and not cookie-based. Angeles was inspired by doughnut burgers, and reasoned if they worked for beef, why not for frozen custard?
Frozen Kuhstard started in 2011 as an underground street food vendor, after Angeles was laid off from an IT job he'd held for a decade. He used the severance money to launch the business. "Frozen custard is a fresh style ice cream that is made with a higher egg yolk content and isn't inflated with ice or air like traditional ice cream," says Angeles. "The end result is a silky and creamier finish."
That velvetiness helps the combination taste rich and concentrated, but not overwhelming. It's a morning coffee and doughnut interpreted into a summer time treat. The dessert starts with a custom maple bacon doughnut from Dynamo Donuts (here there's no hole) split then filled with a soft slab of coffee frozen custard jolted into life with the energy of Four Barrel Coffee. Before the top goes on, it gets doused with a burnt caramel sauce that will pool to the bottom of the paper container if you stand around snapping too many photos of it.
The bacon fat-sautéed apples and crisp bacon on top of the doughnut add the perfect salty accent. It's not as intensely sweet as you would imagine, but it's just as heavy it sounds.
This is definitely a sharing dish, a food crawl in a bowl, and a nice little flavor snapshot of a neighborhood in a way you've probably never had before.