Get Up Early For Pulled Pork Benedict, 'Tenderloin Elvis' French Toast at Fused
All too often, "Asian-fusion" reminds people of some deafening restaurant from the 90s where nobody ate anything because they were all doing blow in the bathroom. Fused, Chef Christopher Williams' new weekend morning pop-up at the House of Thai in the Tenderloin, couldn't be more different. When you come here, you're going to eat.
Pete Kane Pulled-pork benedict at Fused.
Protein-heavy classics -- steak and eggs, biscuits & gravy -- share menu space with some inventive offerings, such as the Tenderloin Elvis (French toast, peanut butter, preserves, maple syrup and fried bananas) and a BBQ Benedict (pulled pork, a house-made cheddar-chive biscuit, chipotle hollandaise and a side option of polenta). Both are excellent, and you might want to share plates, since Elvis happens to be a seriously delicious carb bomb.
Pete Kane Sweet and savory combine in the Tenderloin Elvis at Fused.
Get even more adventurous with Posole soup (braised pork shoulder, achiote broth, hominy, oregano, cabbage, onion, cilantro and lime) or the American-Thai fried rice (ketchup fried rice with carrots, peas and raisins, with ham, bacon, sausage and a fried egg on the side). The rice could benefit from some complexity, or a little more umami, but the dish is unique and certainly worth trying. A highball glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice feels a little stingy for $4.95, but otherwise, the portions are generous. Attentive service and attractive presentation count for something, too.
Pete Kane Ketchup fried rice at Fused in the Tenderloin.
The one serious drawback? The hours (7-10:30 a.m.) are presumably lopped off to allow House of Thai to switch to lunch service. Maybe you've heard rumors of the continued existence of a mythical pre-brunch meal on weekends called breakfast, but that's going to be a challenge for a lot of folks used to rolling into Boogaloo's at a quarter to two. But this is a pre-brunch affair worth setting the alarm for.
Fused, Saturdays and Sundays, 7:00-10:30am, at House of Thai, 901 Larkin St., (415) 441-2248.
Follow Pete at @wannacyber