San Francisco Sure Does Love Its Waffles

Belgian waffles at Grand Lake Farmer's Market in Oakland.
Handheld waffles are big business in Belgium, and they're reaching critical mass in San Francisco. This morning brought news via Inside Scoop that Anthony Myint of Mission Chinese, Commonwealth, and Mission Bowling Club, is teaming up with coffee roaster Andrew Barnett (formerly of Ecco, which is now Intelligentsia) to open Linea Caffe, a little espresso/food stand in the Mission, right next to Duc Loi supermarket.

Sounds like the cafe's focus will be on espresso instead of pour-over coffee, but the bigger news is that Myint will be trying out a few new concepts:, which comes with its own manifesto, and Lt. Waffle, which will be offering sweet and savory Brussels-style waffles.

See also: B.street Waffles: Hearty Hand-Held Waffles an S.F. Hit
Three Places to Get Your Waffle On
The Waffle-gato: The Off-the-Menu Item at Blue Bottle You Haven't Heard Of

We're not opposed to anything Myint comes up with, and are sure the waffles will be delicious. But the thing is, there's no waffle shortage facing San Francisco right now. Not to even get into the whole chicken and waffles obsession (chronicling those would require most of the day), Belgian-style waffles have made their way onto local streets in the form of pop-ups Chrissy's Waffles and b.street Waffles, Blue Bottle's waffles served in the Ferry Building, and food trucks Waffle Mania and Golden Waffle, just off the top of our head.

Truthfully though, most of them are making Liege waffles -- different from the Brussels-styles waffles that Myint is planning because they're sweeter and denser, with brioche-like dough and pearl sugar folded into the dough which forms a nice caramelized crust during baking.

Brussels waffles are lighter, doughier, crispier, and less sweet, though they're often dusted with powdered sugar or even topped with whipped cream or chocolate syrup and strawberries. Perhaps the town is big enough for the two of them.

And the so-called "Belgian waffles" you make on Sunday mornings? Completely an American invention, born during the 1962 World's Fair in Seattle at a waffle house managed by a Belgian chef.

Still, as with all trends in the culinary world, we're just counting down the days until the inevitable waffle backlash. How long until international pancakes become the next waffles?

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Greg Walker
Greg Walker

Who doesn't love waffles? They are the Mary Tyler Moore of foodstuffs--they take a nothing day and suddenly make it seem all worthwhile.

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