Food Truck Bite of the Week: Building a Meal with the Deconstructed Samosa
Our weekly bite explores the city's food trucks, one at a time, highlighting our favorite mobile dishes and snacks.
The Truck: Curry Up Now
The Cuisine: Indian chaat meets American street food
Specialty Items: Tiki masla burritos and samosas
Worth the Wait in Line? At peak lunchtime, it was a total 19 minutes from the end of the line to food in hand. Order online and avoid the wait.
You don't have to work too hard to find the appeal of the bright orange and pink Curry Up Now truck. If the fragrant spell of roasting spices surging from the vents doesn't get you in line, then inventive combinations will have you joining the crowds -- and who can resist getting into a long line? It must be good right?
The truck's most popular item is the Indian Burrito ($8, La Palma 12" flour tortilla, methi pulao--fenugreek and turmeric rice, chana masala garbanzo beans, pickled onions with choice of paneer tikka masala, chicken tikka masala, or vegan), is a fast and filling lunch option. When ordering, it's good to be aware that the baseline regular is quite spicy, so order extra-spicy with care. The burritos are tasty, but because they make so many in advance to move the long lines, orders of them don't always arrive as piping hot as the chile heat they contain. A small flaw, but this kept it from being the best thing on the menu.
On the other hand, the Deconstructed Samosa ($7, chana masala garbanzo beans, pico de gallo salsa, with choice of paneer, chicken, ground beef, or vegan) is worth the wait. Made-to-order to maintain the texture, the dish crackles with chunks of fried samosa skin, a mixture of potato filling, and smaller bite-sized samosas that orbit the larger one in the center. A thorough drenching with the classic Indian chana masala (aka chole masala) garbanzo bean stew and a trio of chutneys contributes depth and contrast even when the crunch bits finally become saturated by it.
Sweet, crispy, soft, spicy, cooling, and salty all dance in different bites, like a Bollywood musical, played out in a take out box.