Doughnuts Filled to Order in Temescal

Doughnut Dolly Pastry Filler.JPG
Pete Kane
On a charming alley in Oakland's Temescal, Doughnut Dolly offers Catahoula Coffee, Jittery Johns iced coffee, and of course, doughnuts filled-to-order.

In theory, Doughnut Dolly is open from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m. (Wednesday through Sunday), but by noon on a Thursday, the stock was running perilously low. "As if the world was ending and people wanted to party," laughs Hannah Hoffman, the woman behind it all.

Hoffman's background isn't as a pastry chef. She studied food anthropology at Berkeley and N.Y.U., and prior to her current 2 a.m. wake-up call to fire the ovens, catered dinners for private clients. Thinking of a food truck, she experimented with various desserts until she struck gold.

Or Naughty Cream, rather. It's a mixture of crème fraiche and vanilla beans, and it's available daily, along with lemon curd, a jam flavor, a chocolate (rotating among dark chocolate, Mexican chocolate and hazelnut) and -- soon -- a fifth, seasonal option.

Doughnut Dolly Door.JPG
Pete Kane
Pillowy, fresh and lacking holes, these pockets of fried goodness are truly fantastic, neither gooey nor crumbly. (They'd better be good, considering the framed, circa-1975 photo Hoffman keeps in the workspace, depicting her mother cooking at Chez Panisse with baby Hannah on the food prep counter.)

Using old-timey, funnel-shaped German pastry machines, Hoffman injects each customer's doughnut with the desired filling--not only for freshness and aesthetics, but "because it's fun, a reciprocal process. People delight in eating a doughnut. They're so democratic."

The 19th century contraptions are pleasingly tactile and analog, imparting the difference between a "doughnut" and a mere "donut," perhaps. The proof? The absence of any of them by 12:30 p.m.

"So sorry!" Hoffman apologizes to the first person she has to turn away, flipping the "Open" sign over, so that it reads "All Gone."

Doughnut Dolly 482B 49th St., Oakland, (510) 338-6738.

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Doughnut Dolly

482 49th St., Oakland, CA

Category: Restaurant

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5 comments
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Sacha_Bean
Sacha_Bean

@bayareabites @doughnutdolly @sfoodie Go Hannah! @DoughnutDolly

danlev
danlev

@stevel @SFoodie I want some of that! And lol @ the Naughty Cream name.

nerdgirl
nerdgirl

@stevel @SFoodie Oaktown run! I want me some naughty cream.

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