Tony's New Calabrese And Quince Pizza Is A Scorcher
|The Calabrese and quince pizza comes with a heat index warning.|
It all looks innocent enough. The pie is given a whirl in a 900-degree wood-burning oven leaving the crust charred and chewy like an exemplary naan. Toppings include a thin layer of Monterey pepper jack, seemingly there more for texture than taste, and large chunks of Gemignani's exceptional, coarse house-made Calabrese sausage that's certainly hot but not in a tongue-searing manner.
The action intensifies with the numerous thin slices of vibrant green Serrano peppers found scattered about. Though offset by splotches of fruity quince paste, a drizzle of honey from Tony's rooftop hives, and a squeeze of the provided orange slices (that should have been a hint!), the fervor from the peppers blasts through, inducing beer gulping and forehead wiping. Ever the masochists, we polished the whole thing and plotted a return visit for another round.
Tony's Pizza Napoletana, 1570 Stockton Street (at Union), 835-9888