Number 19: None But the Brave at Heaven's Dog

By Lou Bustamante Wed., Apr. 18 2012 at 2:16 PM

Categories: SFoodie's 50, SOMA

Lou Bustamante

The None but the Brave from Heaven's Dog: Liquid courage.

SFoodie's countdown of our favorite 50 things to eat and drink, 2012 edition

The tale of Trevor Easter's version of the None but the Brave at Heaven's Dog has all the intrigue of a pulp novel: mistaken identity, poisoning, bootlegging, and a happy, delicious ending. The cocktail first attracted attention from bartenders as the interest in vintage cocktail recipes was starting to gain speed. "What originally attracted me to this cocktail about two years ago was the odd combo of brandy, Jamaican Rum, and allspice dram," explained Easter. "I always tried to make it work, but something was just a little messy about the flavor."

"One day, however, I got my hands on a original print of Patrick Gavin Duffy's 1934 book, The Official Mixer's Manual," says Easter. "I flipped to the recipe for the cocktail and discovered something strange." Instead of the usual Jamaican rum most cockail books called for, Duffy's recipe listed an ingredient called "Jamaican Ginger." It turned out to be ginger liquor; during Prohibition, a couple of "enterprising" fellows altered the recipe so that it would pass the federal test to designate it as a patent medicine. Unfortunately, the new formula introduced a neurotoxin that left thousands partially or completely paralyzed.

"I quickly recreated this ginger mix (the pre-Prohibition version)," exclaimed Easter, "and made a None but the Brave. The drink was amazing!" Easter's version, made with Delord Armagnac, lemon, allspice dram, and ginger, is lightly tart, balanced with the sweetness and spice from the ginger and allspice. Armagnac makes a perfect compliment for the spice, with its rougher edges tamed and yet enough flavor to stand up in the drink. A delicious drink finally reunited in your glass.

Heaven's Dog, 1148 Mission (at Seventh St.), 863-6008, www.heavensdog.com.

Other favorites in this series:

20: Saha's vegan kibbeh
21: Starter Bakery's hazelnut kouign amann
22: Pupusas at Cafe and Restaurant Montecristo
23: 2 a.m. apple fritter at Bob's
24: Le Sanctuaire's vadouvan
25: Crab louis salad at Nettie's Crab Shack
26: Soy sauce chicken from Happy Bakery & Deli
27: Locanda's Jewish-style artichoke
28: Local: Mission Eatery's asparagus-egg sandwich
29: Memphis Minnie's 18-hour brisket
30: Custard buns from City View
31: Mission Chinese Food's kung pao pastrami
32: Panisse frites from Frances
33: Izakaya Yuzuki's chawanmushi
34: Fatted Calf's chorizo
35: Silvanas from House of Silvanas
36: Linden Street Brewery's black lager
37: Aged oolongs from Red Blossom Tea Company
38: Broken Record's crawfish grits
39: Cebiche mixto from La Mar

40: Nutella-hazelnut hand pie from Black Jet Baking Co.
41: Fifth Floor's burger
42: Perbacco's agnolotti dal plin
43: Iced coffee from Sightglass
44: Cypress Grove's Purple Haze Chevre
45: Lechon from Tastebuds Cuisine
46: Duck with beets from AQ
47: Tai nigiri at ICHI Sushi
48: Fish with explosive chiles from Spices!

49: Baker & Banker Bakery's blueberry cream cheese muffin
50: Kufta tajine from Cafe Zitouna

Lou Bustamante tweets at @thevillagedrunk. Follow SFoodie at @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.