Number 28: Local Mission Eatery's Asparagus-Egg Sandwich
|The asparagus and egg sandwich at Local Mission Eatery|
At Local: Mission Eatery, spargelzeit means the return of one of Jake Des Voignes' signature brunch-lunch dishes, an open-faced sandwich topped with poached eggs and asparagus from Zuckerman's Farm. It's the culinary equivalent of framing spring's first vegetable in a diamond bracelet.
Pools of liquid gold, thick and unctuous, hide in the centers of the smooth, cloud-white eggs, awaiting a slice of the knife to gild the asparagus and seep into the toasted slice of Shauna Des Voignes' buttery brioche. A poached egg on its own is opulent, it's still not enough for the chef. The cooks finish the dish by using a charged siphon to spray a cloud of Meyer lemon mousseline -- a tart Hollandaise sauce "lightened" up with cream -- over the eggs, asparagus, and toast. It's the kind of treatment asparagus deserves, a one-percenter-tasting dish with a $10 price.
Local: Mission Eatery: 3111 24th St. (at Folsom), 655-3422.
Other favorites in this series:
30: Custard buns from City View
31: Mission Chinese Food's kung pao pastrami
32: Panisse frites from Frances
33: Izakaya Yuzuki's chawanmushi
34: Fatted Calf's chorizo
35: Silvanas from House of Silvanas
36: Linden Street Brewery's black lager
37: Aged oolongs from Red Blossom Tea Company
38: Broken Record's crawfish grits
39: Cebiche mixto from La Mar
41: Fifth Floor's burger
42: Perbacco's agnolotti dal plin
43: Iced coffee from Sightglass
44: Cypress Grove's Purple Haze Chevre
45: Lechon from Tastebuds Cuisine
46: Duck with beets from AQ
47: Tai nigiri at ICHI Sushi
48: Fish with explosive chiles from Spices!