Bouche Has All the Skills It Needs, Except Menu Editing

Bouche_salmon_egg.jpg
Lara Hata
Bouche's cured salmon with poached egg.
This week's full-length restaurant review of Bouche, just north of Union Square, presented me with a bit of a quandry. Its chef, Nicolas Borzée, has worked for some of the greats, including Joel Robuchon and Michel Troisgros, and he's cooking a complex menu of small plates out of the tiniest kitchen imaginable. 

His dishes, though, could be divided into the rich and the strange. A dish doesn't come together for one of two reasons: There are flaws in conception and flaws in execution. Usually, it's a case of the kitchen not being able to execute a good idea properly. At Bouche, it was a case of technically precise food with odd flavor or textural combinations. Borzée's best dishes forgo weird contrasts and aim for opulence: chestnut soup with bacon and salsify chips, slow-roasted lamb shoulder with onion-almond jam. Some young chefs need to improve their technique; Borzée simply needs a good editor.

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Bouche

603 Bush St., San Francisco, CA

Category: Restaurant

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2 comments
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Scollins
Scollins

The flavors are new, young, and different, Jon. This kid is ahead of his time, and obviously, way ahead of yours.

Jackson
Jackson

The chestnut soup is TO DIE FOR. I wish they had it on the menu all the time - I'd be there every week.

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