If roast chicken were a newspaper story, it's what we'd call an "evergreen" -- a dish that you can run anytime to fill a hole in the schedule, one that's guaranteed to get a good response. Which is why it was hard to see Roostertail rotisserie, the subject of the Weekly's full-length restaurant review this week, as anything but a smart restaurant.
|Roostertail's rotisserie chicken with salsa verde.|
Gerard Darian and Tracy Green's two-month-old place serves reasonably priced rotisserie chicken (free-range, naturally), sandwiches, and a fleet of side dishes (cole slaw, brussels sprouts and bacon, broccoli and cheese) that sound like they've been pulled out of the Betty Crocker Cookbook
but taste as if two former Postrio chefs had made them. There's beer and wine on draft if you're eating there before a movie. Or you can call in an order
before you leave the office, and the servers will run out to the car to deliver your meal when you drive up.
Roostertail isn't 100 percent spot-on -- dinner salads are weak, and the seasoning on the chicken ranges from off-kilter to excellent -- but it's positioned to become a Boston Chicken for diners who demand better ingredients. Better-tasting food, too. A Thursday night or Saturday lunch kind of place. In other words, an evergreen.
1963 Sutter St., San Francisco, CA