Haven: New California Cuisine Gets Super-Sized
Categories: 'Eat'
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| Jonathan Kauffman |
| Haven's baked California with avocado fluff. |
Haven's food takes many of the characteristics of the New California Cuisine of Coi or Commis -- plates that look as if they've been gathered up from the forest floor, flavor combinations designed to surprise rather than comfort, and lots of playing around with texture -- and super-sizes them. On one of my visits, several friends and I ordered an appetizer and an entree to ourselves, and we were overwhelmed by food -- these are plates designed to share. More importantly, it was interesting to see Alter's food evolve so much in one year, growing richer, bolder, and, for all its grace notes and twists, more approachable. Alter's a good fit for Haven, and Haven is a good fit for Oakland.
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