Wo Hing General Store: Cantonese Home Cooking Not for the Masses
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| Kimberly Sandie |
| Wo Hing General Store's steamed catfish with black bean sauce. |
Frankly, it's about time, considering how many of us in this city grew up eating Cantonese food and how many of us pay big money for fancy-pants meatloaf, pizza, and fried chicken. With great familiarity and higher prices, though, come great expectations, and a number of the dishes in my initial visits defied the Kauffman Rule of Upscaling: You're allowed to charge three times as much for a dish if it's twice as good than my favorite cheap version (hey, good service counts for something).
So my first visits were a little iffy. On each visit, though, the quality of Wo Hing's food grew more assured -- the dumpling skins more gossamer, the meats more succulent -- and the chef's palate more evident.
Sure, Wo Hing's stir-fried pork noodles, catfish in black bean sauce, and yellow-feather chicken are grand, but the dishes that I ended up liking the most, such as the red-cooked Sichuan lamb, the yuba salad, and the smoked spareribs with harissa, weren't just upscaled classics but something new.
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Wo Hing General Store
584 Valencia St., San Francisco, CA
Category: Restaurant
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