Drink of the Week: Queen Anne's Revenge at Honor Bar

Lou Bustamante

​I have a teenage nephew who, in the span of two weeks, went from plump, short kid to tall, lanky young man. It's hard not to have that same kind of slack-jawed reaction to the sudden growth spurt of craft bars springing up in Emeryville, first with Prizefighter and now with Honor Bar.

A new project headed up by talented barman Alex Smith who formerly mixed up libations at Gitane in San Francisco, Honor Bar's menu is a collection of layered and complex preparations that drink effortlessly. Smith's homemade ingredients, infusions, and tinctures are found in almost every drink, complementing the cocktails in a well-measured and appropriate ways. One of our favorites is the Queen Anne's Revenge ($10, hibiscus-infused gin, grapefruit marmalade, egg white, ginger beer, lemon), which is served in a champagne flute with the fluff of egg whites stratifying in an elegant presentation. Taking a sip, you get creamy egg white followed by the earthy and floral sweetness from the marmalade and hibiscus-- it is simultaneously rich and refreshing.

The drink may look delicate, but the name of the cocktail comes from Blackbeard the pirate's ship, which should be ample warning that it carries a punch. We like to imagine that the name was inspired by the dimpled mark on top of the egg white foam, marking the spot where the hidden liquid treasure lies buried underneath.

Honor Bar, Grill & Cocktails, 1411 Powell (at Hollis), Emeryville, (510) 653-8667