Cathead's BBQ: Smoky Brisket and Stellar Sides
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| Alex Hochman |
| Cathead's Coca Cola-smoked brisket and hot slaw are early signature items |
Sides (all $4) are clearly a strength, as highlighted by top-notch collard greens that tasted so beefy, we were shocked to learn that they'd been amped up only by onions. An intense "hot slaw" of red cabbage, red peppers, carrots, and habaneros left the tongue buzzing, and a breadcrumb-dusted pimento macaroni and cheese offered a sharp tang and a hefty crunch. Only bland vegetarian baked beans disappointed as they cried out for the addition of brisket drippings or pork bits.
During both visits, several old-timers entered Cathead's and quizzically asked, "What happened to the old place?" with an expression of confusion and disappointment. We suspect that after a few bites of brisket and a couple of forkfuls of greens, they'll forget that the old place ever existed.
Cathead's BBQ: 1665 Folsom (at Division), 861-4242
Follow Alex Hochman at @urbanstomach. Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
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