Red Tavern Serves Stroganoff, Vareniki, and Cuban Sandwiches
|Chicken cutlets -- aka mini meatloaves -- from Red Tavern.|
Stalwarts like Cinderella and the lovely Katia's Tea Room have been around for ages, but other restaurants seemed to have slinked into and out of San Francisco without attracting a lot of attention from the broader population. So when I learned about the opening of Red Tavern, one of the city's first Russian restaurants to open in years, I made it the subject of this week's full-length restaurant review.
The restaurant mixes Russian classics in with more generic Continental food and off-the-wall items like escargot and Cuban sandwiches. After my first meal at Red Tavern I got enthusiastic about the place. After my third meal, not so much. But dishes like the Siberian pelmeni stuffed with pork and veal, Bulgarian salad -- ripe vegetables and tomatoes covered in a shower of grated feta -- and beef stroganoff capped in a perfectly rounded pastry dome are certainly worth a trip if you live in the neighborhood.