Finding a Kouign Amann in San Francisco: Your Weekend Assignment

Categories: Eat This
Starter_Kouign1.JPG
Jonathan Kauffman
Starter Bakery's kouign amann.
There is only one San Francisco location, to date, where you can buy Starter Bakery's pastries. One. SFoodie wrote about the new Emeryville bakery in May, founded by former San Francisco Baking Institute professor Brian Wood and Jamie Hansen. But up until this month, Starter's baked goods were only available at East Bay cafes and farmers markets. That was until Shannon Amitin of Farm:Table (754 Post, at Jones) tasted a kouign amann (pronounced "queen ah-MON") , and immediately made plans to bring them in to his Tenderloin cafe.

The Kouign amann (which means "butter cake") is a rather recherché Breton pastry now coming into vogue on the West Coast. Starter's the first local bakery to produce them on a regular basis, and Manresa pastry chef Belinda Leong previewed her own version at her first pop-up shop a few weeks ago -- she plans to start selling them at Four Barrel and Bar Agricole as early as next week. Starter doesn't just replicate the original -- it's making chocolate and berry kouign amanns, too, all of which are showing up at Farm:Table on weekends.

The kouign amann is sturdier and denser than a croissant, but that's only so that the wrinkles and folds can hold more butter and sugar. As it bakes, the sugar forms caramelized crystals around the rim of the kouign amann, and their scintillating, brittle crunch is even more captivating than the papery layers of pastry. A paradox arises when you eat your first kouign amann: One is more than rich enough for breakfast; one immediately leads to thoughts of two.

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Farm:Table

754 Post, San Francisco, CA

Category: Restaurant

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6 comments
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Chris Hanson
Chris Hanson

In the South Bay, Barefoot Coffee Campbell carries them regularly. I'm not sure from what bakery they get their pastries, but they're wonderful.

Jeannot Lapin
Jeannot Lapin

La Boulange on Polk St & Fillmore St have them.  I had one this a.m. - yummy.  I imagine that all of the La Boulange cafes have them

Auros
Auros

They have them at Coffee Bar, on Montgomery.  I'm not sure I'm convinced that it can completely displace the croissant as a breakfast pastry -- it's so rich as to feel a bit decadent at that hour.  It seems more like something to have with after-dinner coffee, for dessert, if you're planning to stay up late...

RachyLou
RachyLou

Eh, you know, Oktober Feast bakery has been making kouignoù-amann for quite a while now. They call them Reaper Buns and are a lot bigger.

Jamie Hansen
Jamie Hansen

Starting tomorrow you can get Starter Bakery Kouign Amann at the new Little Vine in North Beach. We are growing and hope to be in more San Francisco locations soon. Keep an eye out!

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