Txoko Has a Lot of Good Ideas, But Could Use an Editor

Categories: 'Eat'
Kimberly Sandie
Txoko's halibut with summer beans and sweet onion sauce, one of the restaurant's best dishes.
For this week's full-length restaurant review, I wrote about Txoko, the much-awaited restaurant from Naked Lunch owners Ian Beggs and Ryan Maxey, who are translating their quirky, imaginative sandwiches into a quirky, imaginative menu of Basque-inspired tapas.

When Txoko's on, it's on -- good cocktails, a good-looking room, interesting flavors, and a lot of good cooking. But a succession of details kept nagging at me. Why are we supposed to be fishing our own silverware out of a jar, but the waiters keep clearing them with each course? Why is there only one bite in this course, and then a 20-minute wait? Why are half of the dishes not quite coming together? In the end, it felt like there were too many ideas competing for attention. With a good editor, a lot of red ink, and a round of rewrites, the second draft should be much better than the first.

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Location Info

Txoko - CLOSED

504 Broadway, San Francisco, CA

Category: Restaurant

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