Hing Lung: If the Congee's Not Doing It for You, the Noodles Might
Categories: Rice Plate Journal
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| W. Blake Gray |
| Chow mein from Chinatown's congee king, Hing Lung. |
Rice Plate Journal is a yearlong project to canvas Chinatown, block by block, discovering the good, the bad, and the hopelessly mediocre. Maximum entrée price: $10.
The loud static of Hing Lung's perennial rush hour -- spoons clanking against ceramic, the squee of chairs being pushed back, the roar of Cantonese voices -- always seems at odds with its serene congee. Even with a cruller to dip into the rice porridge or the funk of a thousand-year egg, the reassuring blandness of congee always seems to quiet the other noise rushing about in your head.
Not on SFoodie's last visit, however, when the fish and meatball congee we ordered, which has never let us down before, was tinged with that murky, algaelike smell of freshwater fish that wasn't so fresh.
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| W. Blake Gray |
| The front kitchen at Hing Lung. |
Hing Lung: 674 Broadway (at Stockton), 398-8838.
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Hing Lung
674 Broadway, San Francisco, CA
Category: Restaurant
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