Magical Filipino Cookies, Thomas Keller Speaks
|House of Silvanas' cookies: pandan (top), ube, mango.|
The silvanas ($1.15 apiece, discounts on boxes) are insane: Two cashew wafers sandwiching a layer of buttercream -- read: flavored butter -- are rolled in fine colored breadcrumbs. The reason for the freezing is clear the moment you bite in. They simultaneously crunch and pulverize upon contact, the buttercream melting a half-beat later in a brighter wash of flavor. While the original, ube, and pandan cookies I tried echoed the richness of the butter, the sweet-tart kick of the mango made it my favorite. I could see the cookies working in dozens of other fruit flavors.
Why aren't more people making silvanas? Why is there not a House of Silvanas in San Francisco? Why have I been contemplating a second trip to Daly City since the moment I fished the last silvana out of the freezer? If I proclaim silvanas the next cupcake, will someone get the idea?
2. Sir Thomas speaks. The national Eater ran a great interview with Thomas Keller yesterday in which he talked about his new legacy, how he has no plans to open another four-star restaurant in the United States, and why he thinks the difference between what the French Laundry and Ad Hoc serve is complexity, not quality.
Oh, and the whole pop-up trend? You children think it's something new, Keller scoffs: "My first experience with pop-ups was back in the '80s, when Paul Prudhomme's restaurant in New Orleans burned down. While they were reconstructing the restaurant, he took his restaurant on the road. He came to New York City, did two pop-up restaurants in New York, he went to Chicago, he went to L.A. before he went back to New Orleans."