Locanda Serves Roman-Californian Food with Brains
|Locanda's rigatoni alla carbonara.|
By and large, Anthony Strong, who is running the kitchen of the newest restaurant from Delfina owners Craig and Annie Stoll, has figured out all the steps; his food is clean and elegant, largely absent of protestations of authenticity. (Onevision filmed an interview with Strong in which he talks about that particular dance.) Locanda is definitely still a young restaurant, and its flaws were as plenty as scabs on a hyperactive 6-year-old's knees. But the problems were all flubs of execution, not concept, and they're the kind that can fade away with a few more months of practice. It's also a great-looking place, and wears its every-foodist-in-town-must-eat-here buzz well. And seriously: Order heavily from the "quinto quarto" (offal) section of the menu.