Addiction, Tradition, and Oyster Shells: Today in Great Food Writing
Lot of great writing out there this week:
The feature in this week's New York Times dining section profiles young cooks and entrepreneurs taking over the family business -- dim sum parlors, Romanian butcher shops, and the reportedly awesome Xi'an Famous Foods. Subverting the idea that American-educated children are destined for greater things (aka office jobs), the new blood is modernizing the look and feel of each restaurant -- and opening it up to new audiences -- without giving up tradition. More, please.
The story whipping around Twitter is the Chicago Tribune's profile of Brandon Baltzley, a 28-year old chef with a burning passion for food and an out-of-control addition to cocaine and alcohol. The reporter takes a taxi ride with the chef as he checks himself into rehab, a week after blowing his shot at a big new restaurant. It's one of the best-written profiles I've read this year.
And Gilt Taste just posted an odd, hauntingly sweet comic about oysters.