No. 2: Yuba from Hodo Soy Beanery

Categories: SFoodie's 92
rsz_yuba.jpg
Hodo Soy Beanery
Yuba sheets drying at Hodo's Oakland production facility.
SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

SF_92.jpg
Quick, name three of the Bay Area's iconic foods: local Dungeness, naturally; levain raised by ambient yeasts, to be sure; but tofu skins? No way.

Yes way. Oakland-based Hodo Soy Beanery has been making the yellowed-ivory sheets ever since company founder Minh Tsai noted the lack of fresh yuba on this side of the Pacific. Crafting yuba is an expensive and time-consuming process, increasingly rare even in Asia, where it remains a product of mom and pop tofu makers (though dried tofu skins, which have a completely different texture from fresh yuba, does make it to the export market). Actually, says Tsai, yuba isn't tofu skin at all, but the dried solids that rise to the surface of soy milk, like the plug of solid cream that coalesces at the neck of that bottle of Straus non-homogenized milk.

That explains yuba's buttery flavor and gently elastic texture, more like mozzarella di bufala than tofu. That explains yuba's popularity among a handful of local chefs: Coi's Daniel Patterson, Phil West of Range, and Alex Ong, who's been adding strips of yuba to pea-shoot dumplings on Betelnut's spring menu, an expression of local flavor every bit as authentic as cioppino.

Hodo Soy Beanery: Yuba available at the new Hodo kiosk in the Ferry Building Marketplace, at the Saturday Ferry Plaza farmers' market, and at S.F. shops including Rainbow, Bi-Rite, and Whole Foods Stanyan, Potrero Hill, and Noe Valley.

Other favorites in this series:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño
91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu
90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha
89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar
88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline
87: Outerlands' levain bread
86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt
85: Gyro King's spinach pie
84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi
83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu
82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts
81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée
80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle
79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña
78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe
77: Cheesecake from Zanze's
76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel
75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra
74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch
73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup
72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk
71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille
70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery
69: Plow's crispy potatoes
68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye
67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe
66: Nakaochi at Ippuku
65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer
64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut
63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah
62: Cotogna's roasted carrots
61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles
60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co.
59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail
58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco
57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo
56: Birria at Gallardos
55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine
54: JapaCurry's katsu curry
53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre
52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni
51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage
50: Lumpia from Hapa SF
49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck
48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana
47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca
46: Khoresht ghaymeh at Maykadeh
45: Los Muertos at Gitane
44: Sandwich cookies from Sweet Constructions
43: Nicasio Valley Cheese Company's square
42: Nopalito's quesadilla roja
41: Croissant from Sandbox Bakery
40: Cultured's burdock kasu-zuke pickles
39: Sticky chewy chocolate ice cream at Swensen's
38: Maverick's warm Brussels sprouts with slow-cooked egg
37: Roast chicken from Limón Rotisserie
36: Seven Hills' raviolo uovo
35: Morning bun from Pinkie's Bakery
34: Kaw soi dok at Mandalay
33: Fatted Calf's meatloaf sandwich
32: Duck larb at Thai House Express
31: Lark Creek Steak's burger
30: Barbacco's chicken thighs with olives and almonds
29: Mow Lee's lap cheong
28: Dollar oysters at Bar Crudo
27: Fava greens from Tairwa'-Knoll Farms
26: Nopa's mussels with harissa
25: Salt-and-pepper crab at Kam Lok
24: Recchiuti Confections' caramels to the third power
23: Mandarin lamb from Old Mandarin Islamic Restaurant
22: Tataki and Tataki South's faux-nagi
21: Blacksmith Cellars' chenin blanc
20: Sardine and avocado toasts at Contigo
19: Chocolate babka French toast from Wise Sons
18: Pralines from Southern Sweets
17: Wayfare Tavern's steak tartare
16: Russian River Brewing's Consecration Ale
15: Kimchi burrito from John's Snack and Deli
14: Adesso's lonza
13: Bean-paste stew at To Hyang
12: Stuffed apricots at Pera
11: Chicken milanesa torta at Boos Voni
10: Oboro tofu at Eiji
9: Chocolate-pistachio landscape at Atelier Crenn
8: Pork skewers at Halu
7: Aunt Malai's Lao sausage sandwich at Pal's Takeaway
6: Gialina's Atomica pizza
5: Mushroom soufflé at Cafe Jacqueline
4: Beef stew from Il Cane Rosso
3: Sichuan pickles at Mission Chinese Food

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com

My Voice Nation Help
0 comments
Sort: Newest | Oldest

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

©2014 SF Weekly, LP, All rights reserved.
Loading...