Bistro Central Parc's Food Is Good on Its Own Terms
|Bistro Central Parc's bouillabaisse.|
It's also been several years since I've reviewed a purely French bistro like Bistro Central Parc, the subject of this week's print review, which has a French owner, French chef, French-speaking waitstaff, and menu of bistro classics. Without much hoo-ha, the place has quickly established itself in the neighborhood; on both my visits the restaurant was filled with regulars. For so many years, French cuisine was the ne plus ultra of American cooking, but as our own haute cuisine has taken off, we Americans are appreciating dishes like Bistro Central Parc's steak-frites, truite aux almandes, and bouillabaisse for what they have been all along: straightforwardly delicious fare that is good because it's tasty, not because it's "French."