Wayfare Tavern's Deviled Eggs Are Hella Good

Carina Ost

Deviled Jidori eggs with bottarga, $9.

​In case you've been ignoring the beautiful weather, your calendar, or that asparagus at brunch, let SFoodie save you the embarrassment: It's spring! It's the season of crucifixions and rebirth, of ying and yang, of the white and the yolk.

And while hard-boiled and creme-filled might be good enough for some, what if you want to delve into the darker, dare we say more devilish side of the egg? The egg dish that's so controversial that when it appears at church potlucks it has to go by an alias?

Deviled eggs just don't have the same ring when they bear the euphemism "salad eggs" or "dressed eggs." The "deviled" part comes from the spice, mustard and paprika mainly, though those can seem way too vanilla these days. If you're looking for a heightened level of devilishness to bring on the new season, head to Wayfare Tavern. Its deviled Jidori eggs ($9) feature mustard- and crème fraiche-whipped yolks, radish, celery leaves, and bottarga.

That's what we like about TyFlo: He could go all out and give us caviar on our deviled eggs, but like Jesus he's a man of the people, so he features roe of the peasant variety. It's the salty edge to the sinfully delicious yolk concoction, filling the cavity of the otherwise pure egg white.

Wayfare Tavern: 558 Sacramento (at Leidesdorff), 772-9060.