Amid all the melting and dipping, Fondue Cowboy serves one of the more imaginative soft liquor cocktails that we've tried in recent months. The Mango-Tini uses Petrov Reserve, a triple-distilled vodka that is fermented and therefore can be used by businesses with a beer-wine license. The not-quite-vodka is mixed with mango purée, triple sec, and lime, with a crunchy Sugar in the Raw rim. A couple of 'em will probably tip you off of your horse, where it'll be hard to peep the campy Roy Rogers films that flicker in the background.
Fondue Cowboy 1052 Folsom (at Seventh St.), 431-5100