Kim Alter's Plate Shop: A New New-American Cuisine

Categories: 'Eat'
Plate_Shop_Table.jpg
Kimberly Sandie
Plate Shop's warm winter salad.

For this week's review, I visited Plate Shop in Sausalito, Kim Alter's first restaurant, where the veteran of Aqua, Manresa, and Ubuntu ― not to mention sometime waiter at Acquerello ― is unfurling her own sensibility.

Though she's not doing, say, pot roasts or fried chicken or meatloaf, to me, Alter is working in a similar all-American vein as Citizen's Band and Maverick (especially under its new chef). She tends to shy away from the Cal-Med influence that dominates Bay Area food, and she doesn't use a lot of acid or spice to set her flavors in relief, so they tend to hit you head on. For all the subtle ticks she incorporates into the dishes ― dots of mandarin puree in a winter salad, strips of maple-cured fish bacon on a seared filet of char ― most of Plate Shop's food comes off as very grounded.

I think Alter will really start showing off in late spring and summer, when Plate Shop's backyard garden takes off. I talked to Alter about it before finishing up the review, and will post excerpts from our interview later today. In the meantime, check out Kimberly Sandie's Plate Shop slideshow.

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook.
Follow me at @JonKauffman.


My Voice Nation Help
0 comments
Sort: Newest | Oldest

Now Trending

Around The Web

From the Vault

 

©2014 SF Weekly, LP, All rights reserved.
Loading...