No. 36: Seven Hills' Raviolo Uovo

Categories: SFoodie's 92
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Kimberly Sandie
Seven Hills' raviolo uovo, $8.50.
SFoodie's countdown of our 92 favorite things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.
SF_92.jpg
During his internship at San Domenico restaurant in Northern Italy, Alexander Alioto fell in love with a raviolo dish he learned to make. so he put the dish on the opening menu of his first restaurant, Seven Hills, and one suspects he's going to be making it for quite a few more years.
 
The raviolo resembles an ottoman top. Its pasta cover, frilled around the edges, is so translucent it barely tints the deep green of the spinach-ricotta filling and the mysterious gold spot in the circle's center. That spot is, you discover, an egg yolk, which remains intact only until you make the first cut. Then the egg spills out, riches upon riches, gilding the pasta. As it flows down, it swirls into the surrounding pool of brown-butter sauce, which is perfumed with just enough truffle oil to catch as your fork nears your mouth, not across the table. In an age of sous-vide eggs and hydrocolloid-gelled juices, the raviolo uovo is a reminder that old-fashioned cooking of the most refined kind can produce miracles and surprises, too.

Seven Hills: 1550 Hyde (at Pacific), 775-1500.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño
91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu
90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha
89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar
88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline
87: Outerlands' levain bread
86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt
85: Gyro King's spinach pie
84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi
83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu
82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tarts
81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée
80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle
79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña
78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe
77: Cheesecake from Zanze's
76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel
75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra
74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch
73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup
72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk
71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille
70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery
69: Plow's crispy potatoes
68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye
67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe
66: Nakaochi at Ippuku
65: Sidekick's chocolate spritzer
64: Farmhouse Culture's horseradish-leek sauerkraut
63: Destination Baking Co.'s challah
62: Cotogna's roasted carrots
61: Hard Knox Cafe's chicken and waffles
60: The Rebel Within from Tell Tale Preserve Co.
59: The Slanted Door's Whiskey Cocktail
58: Carnitas burrito from Taqueria San Francisco
57: Sakura mochi from Benkyodo
56: Birria at Gallardos
55: BBQ pork skewers at Fil-Am Cuisine
54: JapaCurry's katsu curry
53: Vegan flan at Gracias Madre
52: Cinderella Bakery's pelmeni
51: Locavore's maple andouille sausage
50: Lumpia from Hapa SF
49: Moonlight Brewing's Reality Czeck
48: Filetti pizza at Una Pizza Napoletana
47: Pupusas revueltas at La Santaneca
46: Khoresht ghaymeh at Maykadeh
45: Los Muertos at Gitane
44: Sandwich cookies from Sweet Constructions
43: Nicasio Valley Cheese Company's square
42: Nopalito's quesadilla roja
41: Croissant from Sandbox Bakery
40: Cultured's burdock kasu-zuke pickles
39: Sticky chewy chocolate ice cream at Swensen's
38: Maverick's warm Brussels sprouts with slow-cooked egg
37: Roast chicken from Limón Rotisserie

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