La Victoria and Luis Villavelazquez Roll Out Sunday Taco Supper

La Victoria

Where: La Victoria Mexican Bakery and Café, 2937 24th St. (at Alabama), 642-7120

When: Sun., April 10, starting at 5 p.m.

Cost: A la carte pricing; the Slow Sunday special deal gives you one salad, four tacos, dessert, and an agua fresca for $15

The rundown: Jaime Maldonado, who inherited the 60-year-old La Victoria panaderia from his dad, has had to walk the chalk line between honoring tradition and attracting the Mission's current residents, those of us who didn't grow up piling aluminum trays with conchas for after-school treats. Les Elements pastry chef Luis Villavelazquez ― a tenant at La Victoria's commissary kitchen ― has said he's helping the panaderia modernize its pan dulce. In a couple weeks he'll focus on tacos, as he and Maldonado start a regular Sunday night offering, beginning with tacos, salads, and agua frescas that promise to tiptoe that exceedingly fine chalk line.

Menu highlights: Jicama salad with pickled strawberries, edible flowers, and chile ($3); cocoa nib-roasted shredded pork tacos with molé ($4, or $12 for all four varieties); lemongrass-scented chicken tacos with huitlacoche and queso fresco ($4); potato-Soyrizo tacos with pickled carrot slaw ($4); cajeta rice pudding with almonds ($3)