This Week's Review: Hearts on Fire!
I can't remember a time when heart wasn't a prize, a special treat. When she served chicken soup, my mother, who is far from offal-friendly, would always add the giblets to the pot. Then she would claim the heart for herself, just has she had since she was a child. I remember poking around my soup bowl, looking for a heart to give her, though sometimes the grape-sized chunk of meat never made it across the table.
I wasn't the only kid, it seems, who found out he loved heart. When I asked Alembic's chef, Ted Fleury, about how customers responded to his jerk duck hearts, he told me, "My old chef, Vernon, brought his 5-year-old in here one time, and he loved them. Now the only thing he eats is cereal and duck hearts."