No. 65: Sidekick's Chocolate Spritzer

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John Birdsall
Sidekick's Recchiuti-based chocolate spritzer, $2.75.
SFoodie's countdown of the 92 best things to eat and drink in San Francisco, 2011 edition.

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​You could argue that Sidekick was conceived in Paris, a city with a healthy respect for the pure products of pleasure and the people who make them. That might explain why the owners, Cowgirl Creamery's Sue Conley and Peggy Smith, felt they didn't need to reinvent everything for their milk bar in the Ferry Building. Take the chocolate spritzer, a made-to-order chocolate soda. Instead of concocting their own chocolate base, Sidekick's milk baristas ladle a plug of Extra-Bitter Chocolate Sauce from Marketplace neighbor Recchiuti into the fountain cup, then dilute with a thread of simple syrup and fizzy water from the carbonating machine. A husky, cacao-bean flavor fills your mouth, but though your synapses brace, nanoseconds later, to register the heaviness of cocoa butter, it never hits. What you feel instead is the needle-prick of bubbles, the seafoam texture of the pale-colored scurf on top, and chocolate freed of weight and richness, thrilling as a Fudgsicle redesigned by minimalists.

Sidekick: 1 Ferry Building #19 (at Embarcadero), 392-4000.

Dishes in our series so far:

92: Goat tacos from El Norteño
91: Faux shark's fin soup at Benu
90: Esperpento's alcachofas a la plancha
89: Poco Dolce's olive oil chocolate bar
88: Decantr's chicken-liver mousseline
87: Outerlands' levain bread
86: Fraîche's frozen yogurt
85: Gyro King's spinach pie
84: Tandoori fish from Lahore Karahi
83: Braised oxtail and daikon from Namu
82: Golden Gate Bakery's custard tart
81: Commonwealth's cured foie gras with umeboshi purée
80: Star Stream's Liège-style waffle
79: Mexican hot chocolate from La Oaxaqueña
78: Meatball sandwich from Mario's Bohemian Cigar Store Cafe
77: Cheesecake from Zanze's
76: Chicken pepian at San Miguel
75: Macau iced coffee at Vega/Special Xtra
74: Comstock Saloon's Pisco Punch
73: Hai Ky Mi Gia's duck leg noodle soup
72: Sauerbraten at Walzwerk
71: Boudin noir at Cafe Bastille
70: Blackstrap molasses gingerbread at Lotta's Bakery
69: Plow's crispy potatoes
68: Prospect's Catcher in the Rye
67: Pork banh mi from Little Vietnam Cafe
66: Nakaochi at Ippuku

Follow us on Twitter: @sfoodie, and like us on Facebook. Contact me at John.Birdsall@SFWeekly.com
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