Wise Sons Deli Pop-Up Satisfies Jewish Breakfast Cravings

Alex Hochman
Wise Sons Deli's corned beef hash with fried egg, $9.
​SFoodie arrived at Saturday morning's Wise Sons deli pop-up an hour after the doors opened. Surprise: Only one table was free. A mostly twentysomething crowd ― yearning, apparently, for a proper Jewish breakfast ― had packed Jackie's Vinoteca, which was buzzing with tales of high school Israel-trip hookups and Camp Tawonga exploits. The vibe was Jewish deli, like some younger, spiffier, less grouchy version of L.A.'s venerable Langer's.

First-time operators Leo Beckerman and Evan Bloom kept the menu tight for their inaugural effort adjacent to Off the Grid: McCoppin Hub, offering only cheese blintzes ($9), a bialy with lox ($8), and corned beef hash ($9) along with a few sides, allowing for prompt service. Everything but the lox was house-made. We started with a dense, chocolate-laden slice of babka ($3) and knew instantly that Beckerman and Bloom (yes, we've already made numerous Producers jokes) weren't fooling around. Babka is hard to come by locally, the Brooklyn babka at Pal's Takeaway excepted. The Wise Sons version was spot on, perfect alongside a cup of De La Paz drip ($2).

Alex Hochman
Wise Sons' house-baked chocolate babka, $3.
​ We then went for the hash, which Beckerman and Bloom kept simple: potatoes, onions, and a perfectly fried egg that oozed yolk with barely a tap. The simplicity allowed for the gorgeous chunks of house-corned beef, juicy and salty the way we like it, to shine. We can't wait to taste this stuff, unadorned, between two slices of rye. Beckman told us on our way out Wise Sons should offer both corned beef and pastrami sandwiches beginning Feb. 5.

It's exciting to watch two budding young operators make a go of it in deli-starved San Francisco. Beckerman and Bloom are currently searching for a permanent space ― SFoodie looks forward to what an expanded Wise Sons repertoire could offer someday. Did somebody say stuffed derma?

Wise Sons Jewish Delicatessen at Jackie's Vinoteca and Cafe, 105 Valencia (at McCoppin), adjacent to Off the Grid: McCoppin Hub. Operates Sat., 9 a.m-1 p.m.

- Read Alex Hochman's Q&A with Wise Sons' Evan Bloom and Leo Beckerman

Follow Alex Hochman at @urbanstomach . Follow SFoodie at @sfoodie.

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Skjellifetti Mcganahan
Skjellifetti Mcganahan

I respectfully disagree. I went in search of a good, kosher, hot pastrami sandwich, and I was bitterly disappointed. First of all, they're painfully slow. I was the first to order a sandwich (they don't take sandwich orders until 11) and it took twenty minutes. And I got a small, fatty, thick-sliced pastrami sandwich that left a great deal to be desired. The accompanying cole slaw was like old straw. If Fine & Shapiro's on 72nd Street in Manhattan is a 10, then this effort is no more than 6.

I recommend walking a couple of blocks to the M&L Market on 14th St. and Market for a faux-kosher pastrami sandwich that's twice as large, ten times better, and half the price.

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