Does This Faux Condom Dish Go Too Far?
Faux dirt ― edible simulacra of garden humus ― has become fashionable in recent years, but this is ridiculous. At Identita' Golose, an Italian gastro congress unfolding in Milan, Hong Kong's self-styled "demon chef," Alvin Leung Jr., unveiled "Sex on the Beach," a dish resembling a used condom flung onto sand. The edible "condom" is made by dunking a metal cigar tube into a food-grade polymer. It's partially filled with a milky fluid of honey and Yunnan ham emulsion, arranged on powdered shiitake mushrooms (i.e., the "sand"). If you missed it in Milan, cheer up: You can fly to Leung's restuarant in Hong Kong, Bo Innovation (tagline: "X-Treme Chinese Cuisine"; Bourdain's been) to, uh, taste it (do you use a knife and fork, or pick it up with your fingers and throw your head back?). Proceeds go to a local AIDS organization.