For Epiphany or a Secular Pig-Out, It's La Victoria's Rosca de Reyes
|Rosca de reyes: Score the baby Jesus and you have to host a tamale party.|
In Mexico the Epiphany cake's called rosca de reyes, essentially "kings' biscuit": Every bit as doughnut-shaped as the French ones I recall, only heftier, since the rosca is destined for sprawling family parties.
There's been a sea change at La Victoria Bakery since the days Jaime Maldonado's dad ruled over a bustling Mission panaderia, but the rosca de reyes still makes its annual appearance. You have to pre-order: a 2.4-pound ring costs $19, a 3.4 pounder $29, and a 4.5-pound brute $39. La Victoria's rosca comes with a little plastic Jesus to poke into the cake (secular bastards, the French). And instead of a crown, whoever gets the charm in her slice is on the hook to throw a tamale party for Dia de la Candelaria (aka Candlemas) on Feb. 2. Sounds like sort of a gyp, really ― I'd much rather be king. Anyway, La Victoria's rosca looks delicious. Call 642-7120 to order for pickup Jan. 4-6.