This Week's Review: Seven Hills, a Classic, Classical Neighborhood Bistro
|The duck at Seven Hills.|
Alioto interned in kitchens in Italy and Germany, including a couple of Michelin two-stars. In Sicily, he worked at a cousin's restaurant (he told me he met his entire extended family in one very long afternoon). Farther north, he interned at San Domenico, then, back home, at the French Laundry before working at the San Francisco Ritz-Carlton.
It was clear from both the precision of the cooking and the classic dishes on the menu ― sweetbread and frisee salad, a very good carbonara, lots of meats with reduction sauces ― that Alioto has done time at some very good restaurants. Rather than follow the experimentalists down their twisty, unfamiliar paths, he's trying to find a way to scale his high-end experience down and focus on using seasonal, local ingredients. It's a great fit for Russian Hill.