Truly Mediterranean's Dolma Sandwich
'Tis the season of wrapping and unwrapping, and in that spirit it's nice to encounter food given the same treatment, only without ribbons or bows.
The food we're talking about isn't a burrito, although its length, girth, and mass could fool you ― what the Jgold, in a diss of S.F. burritos, called "monstrous things wrapped in tinfoil." Truly Mediterranean calls it a sandwich, a dolma sandwich ($5.50) to be exact. Getting to the heart of this baby involves peeling away three layers of wrapping, sort of like a babushka doll, but unlike some bad gift prank that makes you open boxes within boxes until you get to a tiny empty box at the end, Truly Mediterranean's sandwich does not disappoint.
It starts with lavash, lined with dolmas ― grape leaves stuffed with seasoned rice, wrapped up in a tight little package. The dolmas are squashed to reveal their innards before being topped with marinated onions, parsley, tomatoes, cucumber, and a generous squirt of tahini sauce.
The lavash is then rolled up (not quite tightly enough, as our hands and clothes learned) and placed on the grill, till it picks up a lovely brown pinstripe, like some really nice wrapping paper pattern (the grape leaves inside have Mother Nature to thank for their beautifully veiny print). To complete the wrap job, the whole thing gets sheathed in magnificent shiny tinfoil, just like any other Mission monstrosity. A wrap in a wrap in a wrap ... now that's a wrap!
Truly Mediterranean: 3109 16th St. (at Valencia), 252-7482.