|Miller's Latke Delight: This is why you're zaftig.|In his ode to schmaltz Save The Deli, David Sax posits that
the decline of the Jewish deli in the United States is largely due to the
increasingly healthful dietary habits of the domestic Jewish population. Lucky
for us, Robby Morgenstein didn't get the message. At his Miller's East
Coast Deli, Morgenstein fearlessly
serves up the Potato Latke Delight ($11.99), a monstrosity of a dish with mounds of
locally produced Robert's corned beef, briny and
lean, and Sy Ginsberg's fatty, moist Gold Label
pastrami, all served atop two golden
potato latkes. Dipping a forkful of salty meat and fried potato into the
accompanying dabs of sour cream and apple sauce had us thinking aloud, "This is
the right way to start Hanukkah!" Washed
down with a Dr. Brown's Cream Soda, it had SFoodie fortified for a long, intense
night of dreidel.
The latkes, properly burnt around the edges and creamy inside, made us consider forgoing bread altogether on future sandwiches. BLT on a latke? Yep. Chicken Parmesan sub on a latke? Uh-huh. But alas, we remember that we'd like to live to see the eighth night. Back to sourdough and hoagie rolls, at least until next Hanukkah. Miller's East Coast Deli
1725 Polk St. (at Clay), 563-3542.