Som Tum and Other Isan Salads at Zaab Thai
|Zaab's papaya salad with peanuts and salted crab, $7.95.|
Wednesday, December 8, 2010
Slowly, slowly, Isan food from northeastern Thailand is filtering into San Francisco. You can find Isan dishes on the menus of Thai House Express and Lers Ros, and the semisecret Thai-language menu at Chabaa (a few months ago, I had it translated) is heavy with Isan charcuterie, salads, and stir-fried dishes. Zaab Thai Cuisine, which opened on Clement Street in August, is the first S.F. restaurant I know of to advertise it specializes in Isan food.
Zaab's strength is quite obviously Isan salads ― the menu lists three pages of them (including a long vegetarian section). Owner Kriengkrai Amornratanakosol tops satiny folds of roasted eggplant with just-cooked ground chicken, mint leaves, and a sweet-sour lime dressing. He tosses pungent bamboo shoots with chiles, onions, and toasted rice powder, a northeastern favorite familiar to anyone who's made her way through a Bangkok market.
Stay focused on the salads. Zaab's menu is chockablock with all the mediocre Thai curries and sugary stir-fries we all know, as denuded of their regional origins as spaghetti in red sauce and palak paneer. And the restaurant's Isan sausage and pork neck are nowhere near as good as Chabaa's versions. But there's enough variety and novelty in the salad section of the menu to keep a return visitor intrigued for weeks.
Zaab Thai Cuisine: 908 Clement (at 11th Ave.), 831-4010.